'Clothes should be an extension of one's intellect'

Sabyasachi Mukherjee needs no introduction. His sartorial creations, rooted in Indian aesthetics, speak for him. His love for traditional textiles and techniques, portrayed in a contemporary way, has made him an internationally-recognised name in the fashion industry. But was his journey easy? The Kolkata-based designer in a candid conversation with Puja Gupta reveals his share of hardships and struggles in the industry and the changing meaning of fashion in today’s time. Read on…

You are one of the top designers of the country. How has your journey been?

Am I (laughs)? I had a very idyllic childhood because I grew up in a middle class family on the outskirts of the city. I went to school in a rowning boat, and we were made to learn Rabindra Sangeet because our parents were very particular about their children having a cultural upbringing. So, it was a ‘rural Alice in Wonderland syndrome’.  In my growing years, my mother influenced me the most as she was an artist. She was very bohemian and always encouraged me to appreciate art and craft.  My biggest challenge was that there was no major fashion awareness in Kolkata. I think one of the reasons why our business has grown is because while I love making money. For me, it is just a means to an end and it is not the most important thing.

What will you be showcasing at the upcoming Vogue Wedding Show 2016?

We recently presented our 2016 couture collection ‘Firdaus’ which means the highest garden in paradise, live on Instagram. The showcase was an attempt to make the big-conversation pieces of the brand reach out to customers and fans, worldwide. Our exhibit at the Vogue Wedding Show 2016 will include the same, along with other collections. High quality traditional Indian wedding wear will be our focus, but since reception cocktails and sangeet are also an integral part of weddings, we are going to integrate that as well. There will be a special focus on destination weddings and we will present three strong stories. One will be whimsical, artsy and bohemian, second will be a collection of European glamour and third will be our traditional India wedding line which will feature the finest of handicrafts and rich Indian textiles.

What will be the trend of this wedding season?

The mood for the upcoming season will be crafty and bohemian. I would advise brides to go for softer hues and rich Indian textiles. The colour palette should range from ivory to dusted pink and pale pistachios.

Any suggestions for destination weddings?

As weddings take the ‘destination’ route, outfits need to correspond with the venue, and hence we see this emerging trend of lightweight outfits. For a beach wedding, the outfit should be light and wearable. Bright florals, mirror work, multicoloured paisley, all done with a tropical mood are something to opt for. I would recommend brides to play one element strongly in their outfits: It could be a stand out colour; or distinctively multicoloured jadau jewellery or they can go for a completely polarised “glamour” look. Brides headed for a destination wedding must try colour blocking. Since there’s not much embellishment on clothes, pops of colour make you stand out.

What is your idea of fashion?

I believe that clothes should be an extension of one’s intellect. So what you are in your mind, is what you should be on the outside. I think fashion’s initial quest was to create individualism, but right now what it is actually doing is only homogenising.

Who is your favourite designer?

I will always be an admirer of international designers like Coco Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin. In India, Pero by Aneeth has a distinct signature.

What is your design philosophy?

We are an India proud brand. Indian textiles are very important to me. They are the soul and DNA of my brand. My brand supports many weaving communities in India which were dying out and although I don’t want to sound like somebody on a social mission, it gives me the greatest joy and fulfilment when my company contributes to the revival of an entire crafts village. I believe in maintaining this ecosystem to keep creativity and art alive.

What is the best way to carry a Sabyasachi outfit?

The ideal Sabyasachi bride or groom is someone who looks backwards in tradition and not forward towards modernity. He or she has to have a purist belief system and a belief in India.

Your views on the future of Indian fashion industry.

Well, there are many organised and disorganised players. The more you organise the sector, the more profitable it’s going to be for people who get into this business.

What do you feel about the western influences on Indian fashion scene?

Our biggest and only shortcoming is our ability to not be able to stand tall for ourselves and constantly look at getting validation from the West.

Any fashion advice for weddings?

A fashion advice for weddings that stands true for any season would be that if the bride is dressed in a very ostentatious way, it is absolutely fine for the groom to be dressed in an understated manner. One has to realise that on the wedding day, the bride and groom should also look good as a couple and it is not of primary importance for them to look great individually. Grooms should pay attention to accessories too! They should go for bespoke jootis and mojris, vintage shawls.

Any advice for young fashion designers?

Sometimes, it is good to step back from the creative process, and think of designing as a business. Don’t think too much on being “in fashion” rather try to create a style.