In love with linen

Nothing beats the comfortable feel of linen against your skin during the scorching summer. Dip into the fabric to stay cool when the sun glowers

There is a palpable magic, some sort of pleasant quiet richness in the soft comfort the oldest natural fabric brings along with it. A soothing sensation of calm takes over when you slip into linen clothes, especially when the sun smiles strong. Forget shorts and T-shirts. An off-shoulder maxi dress in handkerchief linen cuts a chic appeal, as does a spiffy white linen shirt with chinos in the machismo sweepstakes. Linen has arrived, and the linen club is swiftly taking over the international ramps as well as fashion collections worldwide.

“Linen has become synonymous with breezy summer looks,” says fashion designer Varun Bahl. “Being a very breathable fabric, it has a very high moisture absorbency rate, making it the perfect pick for summer. Of course, it cuts a stylish picture too. The trick is to choose one linen element — pants, shirt, shorts — and then mix that with other on-trend pieces for a stylish look. For instance, women can wear linen bottoms with an off-shoulder top or men can pair it with a logo T-shirt — they are very popular these days,” he says.

Casual & durable 
Linen comes from flax, the most durable of all natural fibres. This makes it twice more durable than cotton, and four times more than wool. The durability rises exponentially even when the fabric is moist. Each time you wash the material, it becomes softer and its texture improves. Says fashion designer Krishna Mehta, a big fan of the fabric, “For the summer, I would recommend linen trousers in all forms — from cropped, narrow ones to long and wide cuts in a range of hues including ecru, beige, light olive, apricot, and navy blue. But remember, given the free-flowing nature of linen, you must not compel the fabric into forms it cannot take,” she advises. “Often when you are looking for a crisp suit, linen cannot deliver. This fabric looks best as an unstructured jacket or vest, over a shirt or a well-cut tunic with a pair of narrow trousers,” she adds.

A comfortable linen suit works fabulously at a Sunday brunch. Optionally, you can team up with separates to create your own ensembles. Depending on your mood, the weather and occasion, linen shirts can be worn slim-fit or loose. A striped linen shirt or a chequered affair in light colours looks very cool. You can slip on a linen jacket to ritz up your appearance to a semi-formal mode.

Colour up
The summer palette pirouettes in pastels from ecru to pale pink during the day, with white in different textures as a season staple. “Summer and pastels go hand in hand,” says Varun. “So, white, beige, blush tones are key to planning your wardrobe. Pink is a big trend for summer this year and lends itself well to linen clothes. Try the fabric in Pantone’s colour of the year, greenery, too.”

For a sportier feel, usher in the bright factor in turquoise and green. Prints work very well in linen, as does chikankari in tiny weaves. Says Avni Bhuva, a fashion designer based in Mumbai, “There is a certain poetic mood to linen paints. The ideal summer palette in beige, baby pink, blush, pale green, sky blue and lemon yellow moves towards a darker linen palette in raw neutrals, workwear blue, rusty red, and charcoal as evening draws near.”

The versatility of the fabric lends it to different weaves and knits in dhoti pants, Jodhpur cuts, peplums and jackets. Remember, the fabric once wrapped the mummies encased inside the pyramids of Egypt, and made up the sails of the boats in Europe and the fire hose in Japan, before reinventing itself for modern tailoring.

Style it right
“Roomy and comfortable are the key words for the summer,”emphasises Varun. “Flared cuts are the best picks this season. So, pick styles that allow you to move around with ease. Men can team tailored linen pants with a bold-toned polo T-shirt for a coloured look, while women can couple linen trousers with a ruffled blouse and oversized sunglasses. For a more formal look, a crisp white linen shirt with a well-cut blazer works well. Or a pinstriped shirt with heels and a crisp blazer for women. And a day at sea demands tiny linen shorts with a nautical-striped tee for women, and knee-length linen shorts and a breezy shirt for men.”

Tiny motifs, monochrome embroidery and light prints visually lift the garment. Says Avni, “Contemporary designs and conceptual detailing elevate classic styles. Spliced silhouettes give linen an edge. Cutouts, strappy constructions and asymmetrical cuts lend a conceptual feel to easy-to-wear pieces. Like a linen crop top with brocade pants, an off-shoulder top with a silky wrap skirt, or a shirt with a high-waisted skirt works fabulously.”

Whatever your pick, make sure you carry it off with elan as you celebrate linen in all its freshness and appeal.