Where history meets handloom

India’s handlooms are not mere textiles; they are timeless narratives spun from history, culture, and the skilled hands of artisans.

I was intrigued when a weaver in Gopalpur in Jajpur district in Odisha, urged me to ‘listen’ to the tussar fabric fresh from the loom. He said, “It will whisper tales to you in Bangla.” At the look of bewilderment on my face, the weaver smiled and explained, “The history of this iconic Gopalpur Tussar silk has its origins in the Bardhaman district of West Bengal.”

The story begins in the 16th century during the spiritual journey of Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. His disciples, some of whom were weavers by profession, followed him to Odisha. They settled in Gopalpur under the patronage of the then king of Puri. What started as a spiritual pilgrimage eventually gave birth to one of India’s most distinctive silk traditions.

Drawing upon their ancestral skills and adapting them to local resources—particularly the indigenous tussar silk—the Bengali artisans who settled in Gopalpur created what would eventually be known as the iconic Gopalpur Tussar silk. Over generations, this craft evolved into a distinct art form, blending Bengal’s intricate weaving techniques with Odisha’s rich cultural aesthetics.

The Gopalpur region wasn’t just a haven for skilled weavers—it was ecologically ideal for tussar silk production as well. The area is naturally home to trees like Terminalia arjuna (arjun) and Terminalia elliptica (asan), which serve as primary host plants for the Antheraea mylitta silkworm, the species that produces tussar silk. These trees provide the exact nutrients needed to nourish the silkworms, while their moderate growth rate and wide canopy offer an excellent, sustainable environment for outdoor rearing, making Gopalpur uniquely suited for both weaving and sericulture.

The quality of tussar silk yarn is intricately tied to the life cycle of the moth. When the moth escapes naturally from the cocoon, it leaves behind filaments that are short, broken, and uneven. These fragments are carefully reeled together by hand, producing a textured variety of silk known as Gheecha. Despite the broken filaments, nothing goes to waste—this rougher yarn finds its unique place in the weaving ecosystem.

In contrast, when cocoons are harvested before the moth emerges, the filaments remain longer and stronger, yielding finer, continuous yarns.

At the heart of tussar silk production lies the labour-intensive process of reeling. I witnessed this task that demands both dexterity and patience. The artisan held a wooden tool called the natai in one hand while carefully unwinding delicate threads from the cocoon with the other. In a continuous, practised motion, each filament is wrapped around the natai. This painstaking process results in tussar threads that are naturally uneven in texture, giving the final fabric its characteristic coarse, rustic feel. The silk carries a natural golden hue. However, with evolving technology, machine-reeled tussar yarns have become more common. Machine-reeled yarns yield smoother fabrics at a more affordable cost.

Since the hand-reeling process is time-consuming and demands considerable skill, it naturally slows down the rhythm of weaving. Yet in this quiet weaving town, the practice continues with unwavering dedication. Almost every household once had a loom, and even today, many families remain engaged in producing hand-reeled tussar yarn and weaving it into exquisite silk fabrics—each piece a testament to tradition, technique, and tenacity. For the weavers of Gopalpur, the availability and quality of cocoons directly determine their pace and production capacity. For many connoisseurs and craftspeople, hand-reeled tussar remains a prized symbol of artisanal authenticity—rich in texture, organic charm, and tactile depth.

Gopalpur Tussar offers remarkable functionality. Lightweight, breathable, and moisture-absorbent, it can take in up to 30 per cent of its weight in humidity, making it an ideal fabric for India’s warm and humid climate. Its strength and durability ensure that the fabric retains its sheen and texture for years, making each piece not just a garment, but also a long-lasting legacy of the loom. In recognition of its unique heritage and craftsmanship, Gopalpur Tussar silk was awarded the GI tag in 2012.