Cherry to cup: The tale of Kodagu coffee

From hand-picking cherries to experimenting with processing methods, Kodagu’s coffee growers are embracing change, writes Dhanyata M Poovaiah

Every district in the state has a speciality and when it comes to Kodagu, it is coffee. While Karnataka accounts for around 71% of India’s total coffee production, Kodagu alone contributes around half of the state’s total output, or roughly 37% of the country’s total coffee yield.

Originally, paddy was the region’s main crop. During the 19th century, the British started large-scale coffee plantations, considering the region’s suitable climatic and soil conditions for the crop. Today, Kodagu is India’s largest coffee-producing district. 

Robusta and Arabica are the two main varieties of coffee grown in Kodagu. Initially, Arabica was the most widely grown variant of coffee. “Situated within a multi-storeyed coffee agroforestry system, Kodagu nurtures the GI-tagged Coorg Arabica Coffee, celebrated for its pleasant aroma, balanced flavour, mild acidity, strong body, and subtle floral notes,” says Pradeepa Babu, Deputy Director (Research), at the Coffee Board of India.

However, over time, planters gradually switched over to the heat- and pest-resistant Robusta. “Indian Robusta gets the highest premium in the international market, preferred for its good blending quality,” Pradeepa adds. This variety has a longer lifespan and is easier to maintain. Today, 80% of the coffee produced here is Robusta.  

The Robusta plants are taller and have bigger leaves and rounder beans, and provide better yield.  The beans also offer a stronger and bitter taste profile. Arabica, on the other hand, has elongated beans and is suitable in higher altitudes and colder climates.

Commercially available coffees are often a blend of Robusta and Arabica. The South Indian filter coffee contains a touch of chicory as well.

“Kodagu’s coffee has good markets in Europe, West Asia, USA and Australia, with Italy being the top importer,” says Vishwanath Keshavamurthy, CEO of Biota Coorg Farmer Producer Company Limited.

While Robusta and Arabica dominate the coffee scene here, two more varieties are gaining ground in the district. Liberica, a larger plant, is grown in smaller quantities, and Excelsa (locally known as Mara Kaapi) is also being introduced. 

Shade-grown plantation

A unique feature of Kodagu coffee is the shade-grown method. “In Kodagu, coffee is grown in shade, wherein coffee plants are surrounded by taller trees and lush vegetation. The slow maturation process of coffee cherries here results in more mucilage, enhancing their flavour and the aroma,” says Naren Kuttaiah, director of Biota Coorg Farmer Producer Company Limited and the proprietor of Kallucoppa estate. Mucilage is a sticky, sugary, and pectin-rich layer found in the coffee cherry between the outer skin and the parchment layer. 

“In other major coffee-growing countries such as Brazil and Vietnam, the crop is mainly grown in open plantations,” he adds.

Additionally, the coffee cycle in Kodagu begins with blossom showers in February and mid-March. The right amount of rainfall and sunshine is crucial for the healthy blossoming of coffee flowers and the subsequent development of the beans. If rainfall is insufficient, irrigation is carried out after 20 to 22 days. This is followed by fertiliser application (pre, mid, post monsoon application), pruning, shade lopping, weeding, desuckering and disease control.

Post-harvest cycle

Most commonly, the coffee cherries are hand-picked and dried directly in the sun for nine to ten days. However, in the honey method of drying, ripened red cherries are picked, depulped and then dried to accentuate the flavour. In the washed process, the beans are fermented, washed and then dried. Nutty, fruity, floral, citrusy flavours can be achieved depending on the process of fermentation.

“To pick only the ripened cherries, we go through six cycles of picking. This ensures a uniform taste compared to when a mix of green and red cherries is processed. Right processing can even control the acidity, bitterness and flavour of the coffee,” says Rishwin Devaya, of the Riverside Estate in Kodagu. He grows a mix of Robusta and Arabica varieties and has also recently been experimenting with intercropping Robusta and Arabica.

Single-origin coffee

Today, there is a growing demand for single-origin coffee, where the beans come from one specific source, such as a single farm or region.

“This is because the local climate, soil, surrounding vegetation, foliage, and even the fertiliser or manure used, all bear an impact on the flavour profile of the coffee bean. The post-harvest process is carried out in a controlled manner to achieve desired characteristics,” says Sandalkad Estate’s Shamveel Nizam, who runs a specialty café in Kodagu.

Specialty coffee should score over 80 out of 100 on 10 parameters, such as aroma, flavour, acidity, aftertaste, body, balance and uniformity. This is tested by the Coffee Board of India and is increasingly sought after.

“The higher the score, the higher the price. Our specialty coffee is sold at Rs 25,000 per kg in West Asia. We also offer customisation, as per the client’s preference,” says Shamveel.

A coffee plant blossomed with flowers

Cupping is another standardised method to evaluate coffee. Under this, professional cuppers smell and taste coffee to assess its body (mouthfeel), sweetness, acidity and flavour notes. The practice is used by roasters and importers to assess new coffee beans.

New trends

In recent years, young planters have been driving innovation. “Traditionally, coffee planters only sold dried cherries. To maximise returns, we should handle the post-harvest processes as much as possible,” says Rishwin, who does end-to-end processing. Coffee workshops, seminars and courses are crucial to take the game to the next level, he adds.

The Coffee Board is also supporting coffee production through involvement in replantation, water management, quality improvements in drying yards and warehouses. Organic/eco-certification is encouraged for estates producing organic coffee, helping them achieve higher returns. In addition, an Integrated Coffee Development Project is being implemented to support the overall growth of the coffee industry.

Coffee cherries. 

“Specialty coffees with local narratives, wellness-oriented blends, consumer engagement, convenience coffee formats such as drip coffee pouches, home-brewing tools and marketing through e-commerce platforms are the new trends in coffee marketing,” says Pradeepa. 

From misty plantations to global cafés, Kodagu’s coffee legacy continues to brew magic.