A taste of Malvan

From fiery seafood curries to sweet coconut-infused desserts, Malvani cuisine offers a tantalising blend of coastal flavours, writes Susheela Nair

My Konkan sojourn began in Malvan, a scenic coastal town in the Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra. Once known as Maha-lavan, or the great saltpan, Malvan’s history as a seaport exporting salt is woven into the fabric of its cuisine. This vibrant coastal community has developed a unique culinary identity, with seafood, chicken, and vegetables taking centre stage.

“Malvani cuisine is a distinctive medley, influenced by Maharashtrian coastal flavours, Goan seafood traditions, and elements from northern Karnataka,” explains Suhas Malewadkar, F&B manager at Coco Shambala in Sindhudurg. Seafood, abundant along the coastline, is the backbone of Malvani cooking, with fish curry meals and dishes prepared with exotic spices. During my visit, I revelled in an array of incredibly fresh seafood dishes, many of which reminded me of the coconut-based curries from my home in Kerala. The non-vegetarian offerings were a true highlight. Mori Masala, a shark curry, and Curry Leaf Sungta, prawns poached in butter and curry leaves, were irresistible. Ambotik, a spicy, tangy prawn curry, laced with Sichuan peppercorns, was a memorable delight. “Local favourites like mackerel, crabs, and Jhinga Fry, crispy prawns rolled in flour, reflect the coastal region’s love for fresh seafood. Another staple, the Paplet Saar — pomfret cooked in a traditional Malvani curry — is so tempting that a second helping is inevitable,” adds Sheetal Tanpure, a foodie.

Chicken dishes are equally popular. The Kombdi Vade, featuring chicken curry with special fried bread, and Murgh Malvani, a spicy chicken curry served with fluffy wheat and nachni flour vade, onion, lemon, and Solkadhi, are staples. Other equally popular non-vegetarian dishes include the Bombil Fry or Bombay Duck fry which is an equally popular dish, especially in north Konkan regions such as Mumbai and Raigad. For those who love a hearty meat dish, the Mutton Sukka — soft mutton cooked with roasted village spices and coconut — is a must-try. 

Dr Chitra Phadnis, an avid traveller, describes Malvani cuisine as a blend of fiery masalas, the vinegary tang of Goan food, and the sweet and sour mix of the Saraswat Goud community. The region’s dishes are built on a foundation of coconut — whether grated, in paste form, or as milk — combined with an array of spices like dried chillies, coriander, cardamom, ginger, kokum, tamarind and garam masala. “The magic of Malvani food lies in its unique masalas, ground with fresh coconut to create an unforgettable flavour,” says Dr Phadnis. 

Though predominantly non-vegetarian, Malvani cuisine offers a variety of vegetarian options, too. Besides, not all of the Malvani cuisine is hot and spicy. I found the ‘Konkanastha Brahmin’ style of food quite bland but very tasty. Bhakri, a local flatbread made from unpolished rice, is often paired with dishes like Kala Vatanya Chi Aamti, a black pea curry made with coconut and Malvani spices. Dr Phadnis adds that other vegetarian delights include Kothimbir Vadi, a savoury snack made from gram flour, coriander, peanuts, and sesame seeds, served with fresh coriander chutney.

Their food is generally pan-fried, deep-fried or it’s a curry which is simmered. Dried kokum, tamarind, and raw mango are used in some dishes. “The magic of Malvani food lies in its masalas, a form of dried masala powder which is a concoction of 15 to 16 dry spices. This masala is coarsely ground and stored in jars to be utilised when required. It is not only the fieriness of its masala but also the technique of grinding these masalas with fresh coconut that impart the food its special flavour,” explained Dr Phadnis.

For dessert, Malvan does not disappoint. Modak, the region’s version of sweet dumplings filled with coconut, jaggery, and dry fruits, is a delightful treat. Malvani chilli chocolate ganache, served with a kokum sauce and biscuit crumble, offers a perfect balance of sweetness and spice. Another popular sweet, Dhondas, is a baked cake made from grated cucumber, semolina, and jaggery — a must-try for those with a sweet tooth.

To conclude the meal, nothing beats a chilled glass of Solkadhi, a refreshing drink made from kokum fruit and coconut milk. Known for its digestive properties, this vibrant pink beverage is the perfect way to cool down after a hot and spicy Malvani feast.

Every meal in Malvan tells a story of the land, the sea, and centuries of culinary tradition. From the delicate balance of spices to the abundance of fresh ingredients, this coastal cuisine celebrates the unique flavours of the Konkan region.