'Clean makeup' sees many takers

Customers must do their research and read labels carefully to avoid falling prey to false claims by cosmetic brands

As more people become conscious of what they put in their bodies, they are starting to veer away from the over-the-counter chemical-ladden beauty and makeup products. While the performance of natural makeup used to pale in comparison, today many brands are creating products that are richly pigmented, luxurious and last long.

However, there is a lot of ambiguity around what exactly ‘clean beauty’ means, with terms like ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ that also have no clear definition being used interchangeably.

Ambiguous concept

Vasundhara Patni, founder, Kiro, says that there is no guideline or body regulating the concept, which has led to different understanding of the same concept. For many, it means products that are made of mostly natural ingredients, while for others it is products void of synthetics. It can also mean cruelty-free products, while for others it is organic, and many believe that it should encompass sustainability.

“For us, the focus is on eliminating ingredients that can cause potential damage to health while being luxurious, effective and high-impact. We are constantly striving to make the list more stringent,” she says. The motivation to create the brand, she says, was the realisation that customers constantly had to compromise between products that are high performance and indulgent and ones that are mindful. Kiro tries to find the balance between technology, nature and chemicals that are good for you.

Since there is such confusion around these terms, people often tend to assume that ‘clean’ is also ‘natural’, and that ‘natural’ is ‘organic’ and vice versa. “Clean products may not always be naturally or organically derived, as they do use ingredients that are synthetically created in a lab without the use of toxins such as Parabens, SLS, etc. But at large, the clean beauty umbrella does include products and brands that are sustainable, in terms of their packaging or ingredient derivation, as well as strong policies against animal testing,” says Krisha Jhaveri, executive marketing assistant, Sublime Life, an e-commerce platform for sustainable skin and beauty products.

Since people have different priorities, they should make a call on the brand they invest in based on who aligns with their philosophy. Just as brands make the effort to be more conscientious, customers have to become more conscious about their buying patterns. “There is no shortcut. You have to read and research and understand the product. Understand the brand, its promise, ingredients, certifications, etc, as well as their priority, before you make the purchase,” says Vasundhara.

Conscious and eco-friendly

Sabrina Suhail, founder, Tinge, says that the conversation around a healthy and sustainable lifestyle has become more prevalent than ever before.

“Young and impactful voices are reaching millions through social media, and there is a definite awareness about the fact that there is no Planet B, and that we cannot afford to stress the earth with toxic products,” she says. However, apart from the benefit to the environment, shifting towards natural and cruelty-free products is healthier for the skin.

However, being clean is not the same as being sustainable, she says. “Sustainability means adhering to low-impact practices from the extraction of raw material to disposal after usage, along with offering environmental, social and economic benefits while protecting public health and environment, and that too, over the entire lifecycle. This is definitely not the same as being clean. Sustainability is a much more holistic, and all-encompassing word,” she explains.

Pandemic popularity

Conscious lifestyle has found more resonance in the times of the pandemic. This has led to people searching for more mindful brands across categories. “People have also had more time to research and spend time on self-care. The message of clean beauty resonates with anyone who wants a safer and more eco-friendly lifestyle,” says Sabrina.

This consciousness can be seen in the kind of queries customers have. “Earlier, people would ask about the shade or about delivery details. Now, we get many questions about the ingredients we use, or the kind of effects they might have on their health,” says Vasundhara.

Apart from the fact that people started giving more importance to health and hence, skincare and self-care habits, the pandemic also gave people the will and room to experiment and try cleaner alternatives, adds Krisha.

Do due diligence

Krisha says that consumers can be misled through greenwashing, where a brand uses green imagery or false claims such as ‘natural’, ‘organic’ or ‘clean’, which may not always be true. Customers can verify these claims by looking for international certifications to confirm what they are saying.

“Look for a COSMOS Ecocert certification for organic products, PETA/Leaping Bunny for cruelty-free products, Halal Biocert for products that claim to be ‘halal’, etc. Do your own research about the ingredients, the brand, their products can help ensure you don’t fall in this trap of greenwashing,” she says.

These terms come with their specific meanings and weight behind them. “Their usage in a flippant manner can misconstrue and make consumers believe that a product is truly clean. Brands have to walk the talk completely in order to declare themselves to be green,” says Sabrina. This includes less wastage, sustainable sourcing, recyclable or sustainable packaging and using safe ingredients.

Vasundhara says that greenwashing is not as predominant as it used to be. Thanks to social media, not only is information easily available, but brands hold themselves to a higher answerability. “Consumers are intelligent and can see when the imagery is not believable. Younger brands are conscious about what they are promising and consumers have a more direct connection with brands and hence questions and cross-questions them,” she says. However, at the end of the day, the onus of making the right choice falls on the customer.

Regulatory body

In India, cosmetic products are regulated under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940. They oversee the activities of manufacturers, importers and distributors of cosmetics. However, there is no governing body checking on importing ingredients or checking final formulations, as a result, brands can launch products in this category easily.

This makes it easy for brands to make false claims. Incorrect labelling claims, counterfeit items as well as sourcing of raw materials are issues that needs to be addressed, says Krisha Jhaveri, executive marketing assistant, Sublime Life.