A tapestry of tradition

The captivating tale of the Udupi saree lies in how it blends contrasting colours in intricate warp and weft patterns. Udupi sarees are known for their unique designs and weaving techniques. 

Crafted using fine 40, 60 and 80-count single-ply combed cotton yarn, the saree weaves together a tale of tradition. The yarns are dyed in desired colours, and the pallu undergoes a tie-and-dye technique for a vibrant contrast. A special brush made from the fishtail palm tree is used in the process. This enhances the stiffness and sheen of the saree.

Until the 1980s, the Udupi region boasted a thriving hub of weavers. However, the introduction of power looms and other factors led to the decline of the craft. To revive it, the Kadike Trust initiated the Udupi Saree Revival program in 2018 at the Talipady Weavers Society. 

The trust implemented several interventions like branding, ensuring fair remuneration and offering training and financial support for aspiring weavers. As a result, there has been a resurgence of interest in the fading craft, with numerous young weavers entering the profession for the first time in three decades.

When the saree revival project was first launched, only eight weavers were active in the weavers society, and a total of 42 weavers were in Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts. Through intensive efforts, the number of weavers grew to 36 in the society and more than 72 in the two districts. 

They also supported newly trained weavers with wage compensation for more than a year after they joined the society.

Saree revival project 

The revival effort is taking the Udupi saree a step closer towards a greener future by using natural substances like ‘chogaru’ for dyeing. Chogaru, a reddish-brown liquid obtained through the processing of unripened arecanuts, is typically discarded by farmers. However, in a sustainable approach, it is now being utilised as a natural dye. This eco-friendly practice not only reduces waste but also adds unique and earthy hues to the fabric.

They also use ‘manjistha’ (madder root), discarded marigold petals from temples and pomegranate peels from juice shops, along with indigo, wild almond leaves, golden shower leaves and coconut husks to create different shades of red, orange, pink, yellow, blue, brown, black and grey.

Modern, traditional designs 

Sarees are fashioned in a spectrum of traditional and modern designs. While some feature zari in traditional styles, others, particularly those with checkered patterns, adopt a contemporary flair in their use of cotton bands. The substitution of art silk with cotton bands has ushered in refined colours and novel designs.

Mamatha Rai of the Kadike Trust says that they have introduced contemporary designs within the framework of Geographical Indication (GI) specifications. Woven on the traditional Malabar Frame loom, Udupi sarees’ distinctive attributes were documented in the 2016 GI tag records. They showcase plain or checkered body designs with contrasting hues on the pallu and border. 

Senior journalist Shree Padre, who is working towards popularising areca dye, says that arecanut dye remains relatively unknown despite its potential. This eco-friendly dye
offers a sustainable and cost-effective alternative to kaththa (Acacia catechu), he adds.

"Chogaru has untapped possibilities. It can be blended with other natural colours to produce an altogether different range of colours." He points out that the challenge lies in the lack of awareness and standardisation of chogaru as a dye.