Clash of the titans

between borders

Heading down from Amritsar after a holy tryst with God at the Golden Temple, I found myself at a certain heavily-guarded location with barbed wires stretching out infinitely in both the directions.

But birds flew across the thorny fences, unperturbed by all the restrictions and security. Swarming crowds of men, women and children were heading in the same direction, almost like a small army destined to reach its battlefield. I am talking about the Beating Retreat Ceremony that takes place every day at the Wagah Border near Amritsar. Wagah Border was the only road link between these two countries in the earlier days until it was divided after the independence, in 1947, and it lies on the famous Grand Trunk Road.

Asked to leave all our gadgets except cameras behind in our cars, I waded through what seemed like thousands of people, excited to see the spectacular show. After a security check, we were all seated on cool stone slabs that surrounded the spotless black road on both the sides. On one end, you could see the road that led us from Amritsar to Wagah, and on the other, solid gates guarding the border of India and Pakistan. Flags of Pakistan and India were at the mercy of the humid wind. The same kind of seating arrangement could be seen on our neighbouring country’s side. The anticipation was palpable and you could hear the seconds go by, when finally, a gruff voice resonated across the area. It was an Indian soldier announcing the start of the ceremony. 

The ceremony involves security forces from both the countries lowering their flags in perfect co-ordination before sunset every day, since 1959. The ceremony begins with a parade on both the sides by soldiers who stomp their feet vigorously in unison. Hardened soldiers give stiff competition to their counterparts on the other side. The events, unfolding in perfect alternation, enthrall and captivate every single soul. With the Indian soldiers in khaki and the Pakistani soldiers in black attire, the ceremony oozes rancour. The soldiers display high levels of aggressiveness and stand out with their interesting headgears and command your attention. After lowering the flags, soldiers exchange a curt handshake and signal the end of the ceremony.

About 32 km away from Amritsar, Wagah Border hosts thousands of tourists, both national and international, who come to watch the enrapturing flag-lowering ceremony that happens on an international border. Apart from the parade, the ceremony also keeps tourists entertained by playing patriotic and Bollywood songs. Loud and cheering crowds attend this ceremony each day to experience patriotism at its best.

 You can get a chance to dance with the soldiers and the rest of the crowd. Do not miss this opportunity, as this will make you feel one with the nation. Get a picture clicked with the disciplined soldiers as a memoir.

The cheering crowds, the hard stomping of the feet of the soldiers, the perfectly-timed lowering of flags, the thick scent of patriotism in the air, and the effervescent happiness of people around you will surely make it the experience of your lifetime.