Resilient and colourful spirit

Around this time last year, dramatically beautiful Leh was a picture of devastation. The flash floods had wreaked havoc overnight to life and land. The terrain had alarmingly been reduced to rivulets of muddy water gushing at ferocious speed and indifferently slaying anything en route. The Ladakhi is familiar with adversity, having been born in environs tough, but this was nature at its unfamiliar best. A year later, some ghosts still linger and scars have just begun to heal. The floods hit hard and tattered emotions, but it couldn’t mess around with the resilience of the Ladakhi. Volunteers helped, the government did its bit and aid poured in, but it’s the local who deserves a salute for withstanding, rebuilding and smiling through it all. 

The tourist season ended abruptly last year. It’s in full swing now and this is the right time for you to make a trip to the land of high passes that’s very welcoming in summers. Flying into Leh is always an option, but the real thrill lies in doing the overland journey.

The 473-km Manali-Leh road has attained cult status among travellers. In fact, modern legend classifies travellers into two groups: those who have done ‘the road’ and those who haven’t. You get the drift. Not only is it a remarkable experience, it allows you lifetime bragging rights too. Another good reason to head north is that, till September 15, Leh will  be dressed in all its finery to celebrate the 2011 edition of the Ladakh Festival.

The event is back on schedule after a year’s gap, after having been called-off in 2010 owing to the floods. The fortnight-long affair is an extravagant cultural exposition which, despite being touristy, is a splendid stage to witness the subtleties of centuries-old traditions.
 
The Ladakh Festival is a vibrant amalgamation of colour, custom, art, aroma, adventure and pulsating spirit. Main features of the event include the monastic mask dance or chhams, archery competitions, thangka exhibitions, river rafting expeditions and Ladakhi food stalls. Also a part of the fest is the spectacular sport of Ladakhi polo. Played against the backdrop of the rugged mud hills of Leh, it’s an exhibition of the supreme power and precision of horse and horseman. Its rules are tougher and stricter, making it swifter than the modern version of the mounted sport and every goal draws loud cheers from the gathered crowds.

Culture buffs and photography enthusiasts can’t afford to miss the inaugural pageant of the festival. Contingents representing all ethnic groups of Ladakh, dressed in curious ceremonial regalia, walk impressively through the main bazaar, overwhelming bystanders with the sheer might of traditional attire. And as usual, it is the charming ladies who have the spotlight on them. 

Among all pieces of the ensemble Ladakhi women adorn, it’s the unusual perak that attracts attention. A headgear with a remarkable trail, it’s made of lamb wool and studded with turquoise and other semi-precious stones. The count of turquoise signifies the person’s position in society. Peraks worn by royalty have a minimum of nine rows of jumbo-sized turquoise. Wearing it must be a task due its weight but the cheerful ladies make it look so effortless. The Ladakhi is genial and genteel and their customs evoke similar sentiments. There is a sense of pause in all that they do. From their conversations to their occupations to music or dance, everything has a measured rhythm. Largely Buddhists, the ceremonies are harmonious and celebrate seasons and the burst of floral profusion. All these aspects are terrifically presented at the festival pageantry. 

One of the many highlights of the pageant is the number of dances performed at intervals. Among these is the Mentog Stanmo or the flower dance from the Wakha, Mulbek and Nubra Valley, where performers dressed in traditional robes hold a bunch of freshly-plucked flowers and dance to greet the season. Another conspicuous dance is the Chang dance. Men balance the chang (local rice beer) brass jug on their heads while performing it. Incidentally, chang, considered a drink of the gods, flows freely at all festival venues. Amongst the communities who arrive here for the inauguration, it’s the beautiful Drokpas (or Brokpas) from the Dah Hanu region in Kargil who stand-out for their chiselled Indo-European features and distinct headgear, which comprises a bunch of fresh flowers worn by both men and women as well as extensive silver jewellery. The community, it is said, is the purest Aryan tribe in existence.

During the fortnight-long festival, stalls of Ladakhi food and craft complete the line-up of offerings. Apart from Leh, events are also held at Hemis, Nubra, Changthang and Shaam. If you have a wishlist of the things to do in Ladakh, attending this festival should definitely be a part of it.