Amidst forts and camels

Bikaner, fondly known as the desert city of India, provides endless opportunities to travel junkies. Replete with spectacular forts, ornate palaces and profusely carved shrines, the medieval city of Bikaner in the northern part of Rajasthan has many joys to offer to travellers.

Our two-day trip to the walled city began with Bhandasar Jain Temple, tucked away in the south-west corner. Reputed as the oldest of Jain shrines in Bikaner, the fascinating shrine was the work of Bhandasa Oswal, a wealthy Jain merchant. It dates back to the time before the city of Bikaner came into existence in 1468 AD. The shrine is built with stones procured from Jaisalmer. We made our way to the shrine that flaunts decorative shikaras and towers high above the city skyline. The shrine honours Sumathinathji, the fifth Jain Tirthankara, and prides in having impressive, colourful painted ceilings, walls and pillars the relate tales from Jain scriptures. We captured the highly carved interiors of the shrine with our lenses and proceeded towards Laxminath Temple in the vicinity for a hurried glance.

Our next destination was the magnificent Bikaner Fort. Best known as Junagarh, the fort lies in the heart of the city. Before embarking into the fort, we brushed our knowledge of the fort’s history. Ranked as the finest land laid forts of India, Junagarh has been the brainchild of Maharaja Rai Singhji in 1588 AD. The impressive fort has been the ancestral property of the rulers of Bikaner. The USP of the fort is that it had remained unconquered despite several attacks in the past. The city of Bikaner was discovered by the Rathore prince, Rao Bikaji, the son of Rao Jodhaji, the founder of Jodhpur, in 1488 AD. It was Rao Bikaji who brought the heirlooms of Rathore dynasty all the way from Jodhpur to Bikaner.

The foundation of the Junagarh Fort was laid down by Maharaja Rai Singh, the sixth ruler of Bikaner, around 1589 AD. We reached the fort that has four massive gates — Karan Pol, Suraj Pol, Fateh Pol and Ratan Pol. We were awestruck by the sheer magnitude of the fort that has some exquisitely carved palaces within — Karan Mahal, Anoop Mahal, Gaj Mandar and Phool Mahal.

We entered the fort through the gigantic Suraj Pol. Our premier spot was Karan Mahal, that looks marvellous in red stone and Italian tiles. Its silver gate, weighing 65 kg, forms its unique feature. We gasped in wonder at the artistic brilliance of the palaces. There is Anoop Mahal that has the Durbar of Amar Singh and the splendid Badal Mahal made of white marble. A flight of steps leads us to Gaj Mandar, famed for mirror work, colourful paintings and the Janmashtami jhoola. The Gaj Mandar overlooks the picturesque Shiv Garden below. Another not-to-miss palace is Ganga Niwas that houses the Raj Durbar with the sandalwood throne. It took nearly 14 years to complete the palace, we were told.

Post lunch, it was time for us to see a variety of camel breeds, the quintessential image of Thar Desert. And there couldn’t be a better place than the National Research Centre on Camel at Jorbeer, situated 10 km away from the city. Set up by the Indian Centre for Agricultural Research, New Delhi, in 1984, it’s a one-of-a-kind premier research institute equipped with a camel museum, camel milk parlour, camel dairy, research laboratories and an agro forestry wing. Open on all days, the centre charges Rs 30 for Indian and Rs 50 for foreign tourists. It highlights the authentic significance of the Indian breed of camels including Jaisalmeri, Bikaneri and Kachchi. The centre wants to develop genetically improved camel breeds so that the Raika community (that rears camels) of Bikaner is socially and economically self-sustained.

At the Camel Museum, we sighted a host of uncommon, interesting objects including durries and jackets crafted from camel hair, shoes made of camel skin, soap made of camel milk, greeting cards made of camel dung, and a range of items crafted from camel bones. Before leaving the centre, we did not forget to taste camel kulfi, that has become a hit among tourists.