A walk in the clouds

A trip to Mount Kailash and the adjoining Mansarovar Lake requires a lot of planning, considering the challenges like the extreme cold, rugged terrain, dangerous trekking trails and the depleted oxygen levels at high altitudes. Kailash embodies all the experiences of travail and adventure. This ‘yatra’ (journey) that takes place only during a few months of the year is only for physically fit people.

In May, my wife and I decided to make the trip. Reading about the hostile weather at such high altitudes, we were a little nervous as to whether we were fit enough for this but when we spoke to people who had done it earlier, we became confident that it was more a question of will and determination.

As we hopped from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and onwards to Simikot and Hilsa on the Tibetan border by small planes and helicopters, flying over the Himalayas, the scenery was simply mesmerising. At Hilsa, we completed the visa formalities, aided by the pre-arranged local travel agents. We reached the Tibetan border town of Taklakot (the Chinese name is Purang). The trek to Mansarovar Lake by chartered buses took about an hour and a half after an overnight stay at Taklakot. The view of the mountains seemed breathtaking and we were on the edge of our seats to get the first glimpse of Mount Kailash. Once you enter Tibet as a group, it is the ‘sherpas’ who take care of you. They cook for you, come with you and guide you.

By then, we were at an altitude of 15,000 feet, protected with several layers of winter clothing. One of the important requirements is to get acclimatised as you travel at very high altitudes. In addition, one would need to take medicine everyday once after meals to avoid high-altitude sickness.

We first reached the salty Rakshasthal Lake. There are many legends surrounding this lake. The demon king Ravana of Ramayana is supposed to have done penance here. Lake Mansarovar is connected to this lake but its water is fresh and potable which is a wonder. It is the highest freshwater lake in the world at 15,000 feet.

Many of the mighty rivers like Indus and Brahmaputra take their origin here. As part of the trip, we circumambulated the lake which took about three hours at a circumference of 90 km.

We finally halted at Lake Mansarovar for a holy dip. It was noon and we were lucky to get good sunshine. The waters were icy cold but the dip had to be completed.

There is a moment when the mind conquers the body to go for the dip. The water is pristine and the feeling is overwhelming. We were a group of 60 people and we performed a group ‘puja’ before we retired for an overnight stay.

The lake abounds with tales of the ‘devas’ including Shiva and Shakti descending from the sky to the lake’s surface in the middle of the night like sparkling lights and taking off again after a dip. The next day we started our journey to the Dachan camp from where one begins the ‘parikrama’. The ‘parikrama’ involves 52 km of arduous trekking around the Kailash clockwise at altitudes of 16,000 feet and above, which takes about three days and two nights of halt at Dirapuk and Zutulpuk camps on the way.

The first night camp is about 18 km from the base camp, out of which the first six km is by vehicle upto a point called Yamadwar, an ironical name indeed. At this point, one gets an option of either walking or riding a pony. One also needs a porter to carry their bag. The walk to Dirapuk camp was fairly smooth and it took about four hours to reach. Though one must be prepared for minimal facilities and some inconvenience, the ‘sherpas’ never fail in their duties to take care of you. They provide you with good food and tea at regular intervals.

It was at Dirapuk that we got to see the divine spectacle. At sunrise, when the first rays of the sun hit the snow-clad peak, the mountain looked like it turned into gold. The sight was unbelievable.

However, it is here that one needs to take a call on whether to proceed further to complete the ‘parikrama’ or not. Most of the people decided to return to the base camp at Dachan as the second day trip was the toughest part. It involved a climb upto 19,000 feet and then down to 16,000 ft covering a distance of 22 km.

The trek is quite tough but it is worth it, if you can make it. You get to experience the beautiful view of the mountains and Gowrikund Lake at a valley 1,000 feet below. The water of the lake is supposed to possess medicinal properties and cure several ailments. After the halt at Zutulpuk for the night, we were supposed to cover the remaining distance of 12 km. However, in our trip, we covered the distance on the second day itself to make up for the delay of one day on the way.

At last, at about 6 km from the base camp, we had a vehicle waiting to take us back. We reached Kathmandu and caught the flight to New Delhi the next day. We visited the famous Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu before departure.

Overall, Kailash is a once in a lifetime trip which gives one a feeling of fulfilment. There are people who have done the trip many times.

How to get there
Mount Kailash is located in Tibet and one needs a visa to travel which is obtainable through regular channels. The routes are closed from October to April. there are many travel agencies operating Kailash tours from many parts of India, which one can avail.

We landed in Kathmandu via Delhi. One flies to Kathmandu and then travels across Nepal to the Tibetan border by road or flight.

Places to stay
We stayed in reasonably priced hotels in Taklakot, Nepalgunj and Kathmandu.

The trip is expensive. Additional costs of having a pony or porter which alone cost Rs 30,000 for three days of circumambulation.

The preparation for the trip involved regular walking and trekking exercises using hiking boots, at least for three months leading up to the journey.


M V Subramanian
(The author can be contacted on [e-mail])