Drool for dosas

The Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan stands erect refusing to change with changing times and Bangalore is grateful. Old rosewood chairs, granite topped tables, white-washed walls, high ceiling from which hang aged fans.

While you are looking up, pay attention to the beams. Sure, they remind you of something... railway tracks! The establishment used iron railway tracks to support the ceiling. Here, even the clock has been telling time for about 84 years. 

Nostalgic Bangaloreans haunt it with unabashed regularity. “I bring my family often. My father used to bring me and my brother. Everything outside has changed but this place hasn’t,” says Srinivasa Prabhu, a patron. Those who are new, come drawn in by the wafting scents from the kitchen that has permeated the city since 1902. “I love food and I wanted to check out some local cuisine while I was in Bangalore. All I heard from my cousins all week long was masala dosa, Udupi Krishna Bhavan. I must say it’s been totally worth it,” said Varun Sheshadri, resident of Seattle, USA.  The restaurant was founded in 1902 as Udupi Hotel by Rama Holla. This eatery was then moved up the road by his nephew Janardana Holla in 1926 where it has remained since under the name Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan. The restaurant has remained in the family for about three generations now and is currently run by Janardhana Holla’s grandson Subramanya Holla.  Arguably one of the first Udupi hotels in the City, the food served here has contributed to the image of Udupi restaurants, everywhere; clean, scrumptious, vegetarian food of high quality at unbelievable rates. You’d be hard pressed to find anything on the menu that is more than 30 rupees.

Their dosas are not for the fainthearted. The crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, ghee-drizzled masala dosa in pure sin. If you are on a diet stay far away. Your resolve is no competition for the scents of the sagu dosa. The melt-in-your-mouth idlis and the perfect vadas are served drenched in sambar. And the desserts of course.

The badam halwa and the dumrot (a sweet pumpkin bake) are the establishment’s specialities. At the end of every meal, in true South Indian style, you must indulge in some fantastic one-by-two coffee.

After much prodding, the only secret the establishment would give out was that they source and grind their own coffee. The mystery of the yummy dosa will remain one, it seems. The only answer you’ll get is an all knowing, ‘I’ll-never-tell-you’ smile. The trick maybe in training. The person who makes the dosa has been trained under a master for many years. Then once he becomes the master, he accepts apprentices. The skill is passed on in ‘guru shishya’ format, it seems.

The restaurant has grown since 1926 without compromising on the essence of the establishment. A family room was added to the lunch hall in 1954, a sweet stall in 1988 and a self-service counter in 1999. The restaurant has even opened a branch in Koramangala. They offer lodging facilities at both locations.

The fact that the Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan is a successful establishment is undeniable. Neither is the fact that the staff of any organisation are at the heart of its success. The staff turn over rate at this restaurant is incredibly low with many employees having stayed here for over 40 years.

Nagappa Aithal, Venkatesh Kalkur, Achut Rao are examples of the same. The idea of family is taken to heart with kids whose parents worked at the restaurant choosing to work here as well. Ramakrishna Aithal, Ragavendra Kalkur, and Raghavendra Rao are all second-generation employees.

If your tummy is growling right about now, you can’t be blamed. Head to 7, OTC Road, Balepet.

The Upperpet police station is a helpful landmark. The timings are 8 am to 11.45 am and 1.30 pm to 7.30 pm but the dosas are available only between 8 am and 11.30 am and again between 2.30 am and 7.30 pm. Lunch is served between 11.30 am and 3.30 pm. The restaurant is closed on Tuesday. 

For details, call 22284999 or 22284777.