Post-winter bliss

canadian charm

The maple leaves are changing colour as we drive into Whistler,    in Canada. They have burst into golden yellow at one avenue while in the distance I can see trees glowing with a fiery red.

The branches seem to change costume, wearing a cocktail of pink and orange. On the cobbled streets, however, under my feet, they lie scattered in shades of purple. It’s rather amazing how a winter ski resort town, cloaked in a coat of white, can suddenly dazzle with a riot of colours in summer.

Whistler is British Columbia’s premier winter destination, a ski resort whose claim to fame is that it hosted the Winter Olympics five years ago. Once a fishing lodge, Whistler is now brimming with people, young and old, who love adventure. If alpine skiing and snowboarding beckon tourists to Whistler in winters, mountain biking lures them in summer.

Named after residents

The town with two mountains — Whistler and Blackcomb — has a gondola that takes one from one peak to another while showcasing the most scenic views. It is, however, foggy and cold today, much like how the British surveyors discovered it in the mid-19th century. Whistler, I am told, was once known as London for its cold and muggy weather and the heavy fog surrounding it. It also took the name of Alta Lakes, one of the many lakes that dot the landscape. But  the residents — the hoary marmots that whistle in a shrill tone — have given the mountain-town its name.

Located in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Whistler and the area around it have a history that predate the British surveyors. It was home to the Coast Salish First Nations People, a nomadic community that wandered around the region hunting and gathering, thousands of years ago. Whistler was also an important trading route between the Squamish and Lil’wat Nations. A glimpse at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre gives you a peek into their history, arts and crafts, and their way of life. I stay there for some time as they welcome us with their songs, tell us stories about their lives, teach us some of their crafts and then leave for the Village.

There is a certain vibe in the Village. The maple trees are glowing in the sunlight. Located at the base of both the mountains, this is the heart of Whistler. It is like a base camp for outdoor enthusiasts who begin their adventure here. We walk aimlessly around The Upper Village and the Village and watch people rent bikes, have a beer or shop. The cobbled streets add to the charm as we pass the Olympics symbol that has put Whistler on the global tourist map. A couple of kids whiz past us on their bikes. Graffiti fill the paths. Some of my friends choose to bike while I decide to walk. There is a nip in the air and the woods seem inviting.

A stream, almost frozen, accompanies me as I cross a bridge and take the less-trodden path. Dry yellow leaves gather around my feet, covering the entire path, and the lush woodlands converge on me. It gets dark and a bit secluded, but the woods lead me on. A board points to a trail of the lost lake and I am immediately excited. There seems to be a tinge of mystery around the name. I can hear the rustle of the dry leaves as the path meanders into the woods. If there is a nymph around, she is probably around me somewhere. I am reminded of Keat’s sonnet, “The poetry of earth is never dead.” Indeed in Canada, it never is.

I have no idea if the woods will take me to the lost lake, and for a moment I think I am lost, too. But the winds blow over my cheeks and also create a flutter among the fallen leaves. I meet a couple of bikers. Out of the blue, my friends on their bikes whiz past me. Another forested path diverges into the woods and a bright golden tree interrupts me. I follow the path and it leads me to a hazy world, where a lake lies oblivious to its own beauty. Surrounded by mountains, a sandy beach on its shore and tall grasslands by the banks, the lake is indeed lost to the world. I sit there for as long as I can and then head back to the Village.

It is time to soothe the tired muscles. It starts raining as I enter Spruce Grove, a 20,000 square foot of woodlands surrounded by spruce and cedar trees, overlooking the mountains. It’s a spa that’s inspired by the Nordic traditions of hydrotherapy.

Alternating between hot and cold, the body is treated to a relaxation technique that is an ancient Scandinavian custom. I warm myself in an eucalyptus steam room and then plunge into the waterfalls, dipping into the cold waters. My next stop is a hot bath where the mountains look down at me. The cold plunges then await me as I relax later in a Finnish sauna, lying on the hot planks of wood. Finally, I unwind on the terrace, curled up in a chair, staring at the mountains and losing myself in the process.

It’s time to call it a day. As the mountains fade away from my view, I tell myself that I should have a date with Whistler in winters as well.

Fact file

Whistler remains as a favourite among outdoor and adventure enthusiasts. Biking, hiking, skiing, snowboarding are some of the activities worth taking on.

Located 125 km from Vancouver, Whistler is two hours by road by the scenic Sea to Sky Highway route. Driving through this highway is an experience by itself and should not be missed.

There are plenty of accommodation options in Whistler — from B&Bs to mountain-side homes to service apartments to resorts. The Four Seasons Resort overlooking the forests and mountains give an old world charm.