JOIN USThe fury of the thundering Dudh Dhara and Kapil Dhara Falls is drowned by the wild cacophony of high-pitched shrieks from youngsters making merry under the tumbling cascade. The zeal of picnicking revellers is matched only by the fervour of the faithful who flock to Amarkantak, seeking salvation.
Sadhus in saffron dhotis tied knee high, with kamandals or pitchers in hand, briskly wend their way to the sacred Narmada Kund, chanting Har Har Mahadev. We observe a few perilously thin mendicants engaged in a host of activities. While a couple totter in the alleys in an inebriated state, there are few basking under the wintry sun, drawing huge puffs from their hookahs and beedis, while others lounge under trees, calling pilgrims to be generous with their wallets. CDs playing bhajans and songs in praise of Lord Shiva blare from kiosks and stalls selling an assortment of wares.
A holy atmosphere
We take a few faltering steps after alighting from our car, intimidated by gnarling simians that threaten to decamp with our handbags and cameras. They are mostly the gray langurs or Hanuman langurs that inhabit the forests of Amarkantak, which boasts several other creatures of the wild.
The densely-forested Maikal Range of mountains stretches infinitely on the Amarkantak plateau, 3,750 feet above sea level. It is the birthplace of the Narmada, Sone and Johila rivers, which originate at the confluence of Satpura, Vindhya and Maikal ranges. While the holy Narmada wraps itself around the bustling town, it is equally palpable that Amarkantak snuggles the river in its warm embrace.
With a plethora of temples dotting it landscape, most of them dating back from the 8th century, Amarkantak is often referred to as teerthraj or ‘king of pilgrimages’. It is a town where legends and myths abound and magical things are believed to happen. ‘Amarkantak’, perhaps derives from Amrakoota, as Kalidasa, the 5th century Sanskrit poet, referred to the place in his lyrical poem Meghadootam, for, it was ridden with mango (amra) trees. It was in Amarkantak’s Kabir Chabutra, a platform surrounded by a water body, that the 15th century mystic poet Kabir meditated and also shed his mortal coils. To date, followers of the saint visit the Chabutra to pay their homage to him.
Mythology refers to Lord Shiva having set fire to the mythical town of Tripura, the ashes of which fell upon Amarkantak. They transformed into a 1,000 lingas, one of which is worshipped at Jwaleshwar on the Amarkantak-Shahdol stretch leading to Jabalpur. Several spiritual texts mention Amarkantak as being in existence since the times of the epic Mahabharata when the Pandavas lived here during their exile.
Though much of Amarkantak reveals buildings with crumbling façades, tottering roofs and walls infested with creepers, and little trappings of modernity, the place has a charm that defies description. If the architectural marvels of Mahameru Yantra Temple and Shri Adinath Jain Temple, and modern additions to the town are captivating, the air of mysticism is overwhelming as we enter Narmada Udgam, the focal point of the pilgrim centre. It is a cluster of shrines, painted white, with domes, and enclosed by a high-raised compound wall. It is the source of the Narmada and Amarkantak’s holiest spot. The temples within its premises are dedicated to various deities, Narmada Devi, predominating.
This is where the sacred river emerges from the earth and wells up in a stepped kund or tank. The entire area is abuzz with activity as worshippers take dips in the pool and make offerings at the various shrines surrounding it. As we leisurely take in the divine beauty of our environs, our attention is diverted by a bunch of people clamouring to squeeze themselves and crawl under the belly of a sculpted elephant that has its face smeared with sindhur. Well, they hope to relieve themselves of all their sins and achieve prosperity by doing so!
Tale of a river
A self-appointed guide who follows us and insists on rattling tales associated with the region tells us that according to the Puranas, Narmada, a virgin river, is the only water body on earth to have a circumambulatory route. While a bath in the Ganges is considered holy, the mere sight of the Narmada is supposed to purify one of all transgressions! No wonder then, Ganga herself visits Narmada every year, in the garb of a black cow to have a purifying bath! It is obvious even to the most casual visitor that Amarkantak celebrates, reveres and worships the Narmada which is the nerve centre of the town and its economy.
While it has certainly earned fame as a pilgrim’s trail, Amarkantak is undoubtedly a picturesque paradise for tourists and has something to lure people of all ages and varied interests. While the verdant valleys, an immense carpet of green touching the horizon, offer us a visual feast, the mountains beckon trekkers and adventurists. The foaming deluges of Sonemuda, Dudh Dhara and Kapil Dhara are no less compelling. Particularly spectacular is Kapil Dhara which gets its name from Kapil rishi, who is believed to have meditated here.
As the roaring waterfall thunders down a vertical height of 100 ft, it crashes on boulders, sending forth jet sprays of water. We make our way to the base of the falls, which in itself is a scintillating experience, accompanied by ambient sounds from birds and insects of the forest. We take brief halts in between to witness the sheer magic of the tranquil rivers cascade down the slopes of the hills before they burst into vivacious and fluffy white drapes.
Having sated ourselves with the aqueous acrobats played out by the falls, our attention is drawn to the rumbling in our bellies. The smell of frying pakoras and bhajias, ubiquitous snacks that bind our nation, further fuels this urge. While Amarkantak does not boast any star hotels or big eateries, it has plenty of small outlets serving snacks all through the day. It is at one of these restaurants that we take off on a gastronomic odyssey. We polish off platefuls of these spicy savouries and wash them down with adhrak ki chai, even as our tongues are on fire and our cheeks wet from the ocular humidity brought on by the hot combo.
As the pale beams of sunlight from the retiring sun lance through the gaps in our foliaceous environs, we bid adieu to a town that throbs with life on a wavelength so unique and apart from our frenzied metro world!
Fact File
Air: Raipur, 230 km away, is the nearest airport.
Rail: Pendra Road on the Bilaspur-Katni route is the nearest railhead, 42 km away.
Road: Buses ply to Amarkantak from Raipur, Bilaspur, Jabalpur, Rewa, Katni and Shahdol.
Best time to visit: August to March