Sight of extravagance

Nandita Mahajan visits the renovated Chowmahalla Palace in Hyderabad to find that despite the facelift, it still holds signs of a time gone by.

In the heart of 18th-century Hyderabad, Nizam Salabat Jung initiated the construction of what was to be the Nizams’ official palace of residence. Around 1857, during the time of Nizam Afzal ud-Dawlah, Chowmahalla Palace was finally completed.

For over a century, the palace was the seat of the Asaf Jahi Dynasty. It witnessed the lives of the Nizams and their families. Their coronation ceremonies were held within its walls, their children played in its vast courtyards, and their official guests and royal visitors were entertained here.

Years later, in a seemingly different world, I stand in the northern courtyard of Chowmahalla Palace.

I am one of the many visitors who has come here since the palace was renovated and, with much of its former grandeur restored, opened to the public. The palace complex is said to have been modelled after the Shah’s palace in Tehran. The 45 acres that it originally covered have now been reduced to 12. It stands in Old City, Hyderabad, only a stone’s throw from other buildings of historical importance such as the Charminar, the Mecca Masjid and the Salar Jung  Museum.

Royal restoration

Much of the palace grounds are occupied by gardens, ponds and fountains. The Northern Courtyard, I find, has a few interesting features, such as the Bara Imam — a seemingly infinite, long corridor of rooms — and the Clock Tower that houses the Khilwat clock.
As I enter the grand Khilwat Mubarak, the Durbar hall that was once used for public gatherings, I am overwhelmed by the sheer size of it, to say nothing of its beauty. The entire place is lit up by numerous chandeliers that hang from the ceiling, and at the very centre of the hall is the marble throne where the Nizam once sat.

Next, I come upon an interesting little room full of paintings of all the Nizams, as well as old photographs of the palace and some coins, notes and stamps that were used in the day. The palace’s ‘hall of heritage arts’ houses some beautiful works of art as well; the walls are adorned with paintings of the Nizams that portray their daily activities.

In the ‘hall of heritage crockery’, I feast my eyes on some of the grandest crockery I have ever seen. Forks, spoons, glasses, jugs, plates… it would seem that every kind of dish ever used by the royal family is on display here. My guide explains that celebrations were an integral part of the Nizams’ lifestyle and great attention to detail was paid, especially where food was concerned, for the Nizams were great patrons of local Hyderabadi food. In fact, successive generations displayed roti designs on their flag.

Tora was the collective name for food that was especially prepared for feasts, or for the purpose of being sent to friends or relatives. An oriental style of eating was followed; Chaukris, or tables with short legs, were used on a carpeted floor.

Elegance and grace at the table were given utmost importance.Then I come to the arms and armour collection, where an exhaustive display of the dynasty’s weapons — including swords, shields, bows and arrows, daggers, guns and armour — are hung about the walls.

There’s also an interesting photo gallery of the Asaf Jahi dynasty that features the Nizams along with their wives and children.

The Chowmahalla Palace has a collection of several hundred textiles that belonged to the Nizams and their descendents. Traditionally, the clothes they wore had a layering of precious metals. All kinds of metallic embroidery were applied, such as karchob (gold and silver thread), kalabattu (sequins) and sitara (coiled wires). Needless to say, they wore extremely grand and lavish clothing.

The khada dupatta costume was popular with women in Hyderabad in the late 19th century. It consisted of a six and a half metre-long, large dupatta, usually made of silk. This was paired with a sleeveless kurti — often with a keyhole neckline — and a sleeved choli underneath. The sidha paijama was stitched from rich brocaded silk.

But my personal favourite at Chowmahalla Palace is the gallery of vintage vehicles that were used by those in the Asaf Jahi dynasty. These include a number of antique carriages, cars and bikes, such as the 1946 Harley Davidson and the Rolls Royce Silver Ghost Throne Car with the crest of the Nizam on it.

This car was made to order in 1911. Apparently, it has run only 356 miles and is still in working condition; it was used sparingly, for, the Nizam and his family only rode in it on special occasions. Moreover, this car was a participant in the Cartier Travel with Style Concour-de-Elegance in Delhi last year, and it bagged the “Best of class” prize in the Rolls Royce class, as well as the “Best of show the Concour de Elegance” prize.

The Southern Courtyard of the Chowmahalla Palace is the oldest part of the complex and is currently under restoration. It consists of four palaces: Afzal Mahal, Mahtab Mahal, Tahniyat Mahal and Aftab Mahal. It is for this reason that the palace is called Chowmahalla Palace; its name literally means “four palaces”.

I take a quick peek into Afzal Mahal, and see a lavishly decorated living room with beautiful sofa sets, chandeliers and gold curtains. Afzal Mahal housed the Nizam’s quarters, and was also the palace guest house. Aftab Mahal, meaning Rani Mahal, was the Queen’s palace of residence. Tahniyat Mahal was a hall reserved for personal meetings, and Mehtab Mahal was the Nizam’s office.

Today, Chowmahalla Palace is known among historians as the “Palace of Arabian Nights”. It is the only palace to have ever been given the UNESCO Award of Merit. The Nizams of the resplendent Asaf Jahi Dynasty — though dead and gone — live on within its walls, made immortal by the relics that they left behind.

Every day they are remembered; their lives are relived again and again, in the imaginations of the palace’s visitors. They have left — in the words of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow — “footprints in the sands of time.”