Abode of the blue-throated one

The ancient shrine of Nanjundeshwara is located in Nanjangud, about 23 km from Mysore, on the banks of River Kapila (also called Kabini), a tributary of Cauvery. During my recent visit here, I found this abode of Lord Shiva to be immensely rich in legend and bearing historical and architectural significance, in addition to its popularity as a pilgrimage centre.

Kapila provides a breathtaking, picturesque backdrop to the shrine of Nanjundeshwara. You will find it full, its waters widespread, flirting gently with the banks.

Both sides of the river are buttressed with unspoilt greenery. Nanjangud happens to be a place of confluence of three rivers – Kapila , Kaundinya (also called Gundlu) and Churnavathi, a small rivulet.

Mythological background

According to Hindu mythology, during the Ksheera Sagara Manthanam (churning of the ocean of milk) by devas and asuras (Gods and Demons) in their quest for amruth (nectar believed to make one immortal), Vasuki, the serpent king was used as a rope.

During the process of churning, due to the excessive strain, Vasuki started vomiting kalakuta visha (poison).

In order to prevent the lethal poison from spreading across the universe and annihilating all living beings, Lord Shiva came to the rescue and consumed the venom.

Immediately, the Lord’s consort Parvathi rushed to hold his throat tightly to prevent the poison from spreading to the rest of his body.

Narada, on his part, held his mouth to prevent Lord Shiva vomit it out. Consequently, the kalakuta visha (poison) stagnated in Lord Shiva’s throat permanently, making it blue in colour.

Hence Lord Shiva came to be known as Neelakantha or ‘the blue-throated one’, and also as Sreekanteswara.

Nanju in Kannada means poison, and thus the town acquired the name Nanjangud.

The Nanjundeshwara Temple has a gigantic, awe-inspiring structure, and is located inside a large complex, enclosed within high walls embedded with beautiful sculptures.

The entrance is through the doorway of the tall rajagopura, which is decorated with many statuettes of Lord Shiva in different poses, at different levels.

At the topmost level, you will see a beautiful sculpture of the divine couple Shiva and Parvathi seated on a pedestal, flanked by the manifestations of two of the Lord’s bhootha ganas (group of spirits).

Seven brass kalasas are fixed on the top, flanked by two horn-shaped objects.

A replica of the rajagopura is also located behind the complex.

Numerous shrines

This complex has about 200 shrines dedicated to Narayana, Chandikeswara, Parvathi, Natya Ganapathi, Velayudhapani and others.

All around the sanctum, inside the complex, a long corridor-type mandapa is built, within which are located statues of artistic significance, including 121 Shiva lingas along with Nandis in varying sizes and life size sculptures of 63 Nayanmar saints.

The outer walls of the parikrama (compound) also carry several beautiful sculptures of various deities. A doorway takes you to the expansive parikrama, where you ascend the steps to reach the mandapa and then the sanctum.

The mandapa and the shikhara are decorated with many statuettes and artistic designs.

As per the annals of history, this temple was originally built by the Ganga (Chola) rulers in the 9th Century, when they occupied this territory.

Later, the Hoysalas and Vijayanagar rulers made restorations, renovations and additions.

Lastly, the Wodeyars of Mysore are reported to have provided funds for total renovation of the temple complex.

The Maharaja of Mysore, Krishnaraja Wodeyar III reportedly incorporated many additions to beautify the shrine and its complex.

The tall rajagopuram was built in 1845, and with dimensions of 385 X 160, it became one of the biggest temples of Karnataka.

The Mysore Maharaja also built the long mantapa around the sanctum on all the three sides.

About a kilometre from the Nanjundeshwara Temple, on the banks of Kapila, is a small shrine dedicated to Parasurama.

It is believed that Parasurama came here to cleanse himself of the sin of beheading his mother. He is believed to have obtained peace of mind at this place, and therefore decided to do penance here. Lord Shiva was pleased with him and asked him to build a temple in this spot.

Festivals

Dodda jathre and Chikka jathre are the chariot festivals which take place twice a year here, when the utsavamurti is taken in a procession, seated in the grand temple chariot.

Along with the main deity, four other chariots also take part in the jathre, in which Lord Ganapathi, Lord Subrahmanya, Goddess Parvathi and Lord Chandikeshwara are seated.

Thousands of devotees volunteer to pull the chariots across the streets of the town. The entire town remains immersed in festivities during the fairs.

The Temple complex is also illuminated during those nights, creating a divine atmosphere around it.

It is interesting to note that Nanjangud is also famous for the manufacture of ayurvedic medicines and a special herbal tooth powder marketed as ‘Nanjangud Hallupudi’.

The place also has a popular and rare variety of banana called ‘Nanjangud Rasabale’, which has become scarce these days.

Though Nanjangud has become a major industrial hub of Mysore with several Indian and multinational companies having their production units here, the Temple and its immediate peripheral areas, including the river and its banks, remain unaffected.

And the popularity of the place as a pilgrimage centre, and the glory of the God who consumed venom are ever increasing.