The forgotten trails of Francis Buchanan

On August 10, I took up a project to retrace the path of Francis Buchanan, the renowned Scottish physician and geographer who documented his explorations of south India in 1800-01. His meticulous documentation in The Journey from Madras through the Countries of Mysore, Canara and Malabar continues to serve as a valuable resource for understanding the region’s past.

My journey began at Doray Gudda, a hill once significant for its iron ore deposits, and Malleshwara betta. After crossing Nittur in Tumakuru and heading towards K B Cross, we inquired about Doray Gudda. But to our dismay, young locals had no recollection of this name. However, fortune smiled upon us when we encountered an older resident near a roadside hotel, close to Kondli Cross.

Buchanan, in his writings, referred to a place called ‘Conli’, locally known as ‘Kondli’.  The elderly man we met was not only familiar with the name, but was also eager to guide us to Doray Gudda. As we crossed Shivasandra and approached a small hill, the soil beneath our feet turned reddish, confirming the presence of iron ore — a sign that this was indeed a mining area, as Buchanan had described.

We ascended the hill, where evidence of past mining activities became apparent. The landscape was marked by ridges and traces of old excavations. Buchanan noted that this hill was unique in the vicinity for producing iron ore, although it was known by different names in different villages. At Kondli, it was called Doray Gudda, a name Buchanan adopted in his documentation.

The strata of the hill, Buchanan observed, were vertical and ran north to south, a characteristic of many hills in this region. This chain of hills stretches all the way to Chitradurga. The ore here is embedded with earthy quartz or hornstone, with masses that are whitish and fine-grained. Another form of ore found in the area is bluish and somewhat brittle.

In Buchanan’s time, local people were engaged in iron smelting and transported the ore using buffaloes and donkeys. Tumakuru, C N Halli, Hagalwadi, Sira and other nearby areas were hubs of iron production. Buchanan documented the number of furnaces supplied by this hill: Six in Tumakuru, 10 in Hagalwadi, seven in C N Halli and three in Sira.

A cavern of iron ore and mystery

Near Doray Gudda, Buchanan documented a cavern about 15 feet in length, 12 feet high, and nine feet wide, which was probably carved out for iron mining. When he cautiously fired his musket into it, nothing but a large flock of bats appeared. He entered the cavern with two armed men, where they saw a bed that had probably been arranged by a tiger or leopard. They also discovered porcupine quills. Unfortunately, we were unable to trace the cavern.

Buchanan also detailed the mining practices of the locals, including the number of workers, supply of iron ore from the hill and the product of iron smelting. He noted that locals performed an annual sacrifice to the deities Gudada Umma (Guddadamma), the mother of the hill, and Muti Raya (Muthuraya), a male spirit believed to protect the mine hill. We, however, could only locate a Hanuman temple along the ascent to the hill.

Our journey continued northeast towards Malleshwara betta, known in Buchanan’s writings as Malaiswara Betta, near Madana Madu village. Buchanan observed that the strata here were nearly identical to those of Doray Gudda, consisting of decaying schistose rocks (thinly-layered metamorphic rocks) arranged vertically. 

The vertical stones Buchanan described can still be seen today, preserved outside the temple. He also documented the presence of lithomarge, a soft, earthy material formed from the weathering of feldspar-rich rocks, found in large masses atop the rocky strata. The view from the hilltop is breathtaking, offering a panoramic sight of cultivated fields, small lakes, and lush coconut and areca plantations.

Our expedition to Doray Gudda and Malleshwara betta was not just an adventurous trek but a journey back in time, bringing Buchanan’s rich historical records to life. 

The hills we explored, once thriving centres of iron production and spiritual significance, now stand as quiet witnesses to a bygone era. Through our exploration, we hope that the legacy of these hills will not be forgotten.

A close-up of the ore found at Doray Gudda. Photos by author