Worshipping the serpent god

Nagamandala, the worship of serpent god, is a religious-cum-cultural event popular in Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts. It is believed that snake is blessed with special powers and is regarded as the symbol of fertility. The snake god is worshipped in many ways.

Snake has a special place in the culture of Tulunadu, comprising Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts, where nagabana or the abode of serpents is commonly seen. There is a belief that Naga worshippers from the northern part of India might have introduced the rituals to the south.

The event of nagamandala involves a lot of preparations, huge expenditure and effort. Initially, A special pandal is erected at the centre of a sprawling and spacious field. The pillars are decorated with colourful flowers, tender areca flowers and tender coconuts. An elevated, spacious stage is prepared right in the middle of the pandal.

A huge drawing, also called rangoli, of a giant snake, drawn with powders of five different colours, occupies the centre stage. Heaps of tender areca flowers and tender coconuts, flowers and vegetables are placed around this drawing. The five distinct colours used to draw the rangoli are — yellow (made from turmeric powder), white (white stone powder), green (green leaves powder), black (made from roasted and powdered paddy husk) and red (made from a mix of lime powder and turmeric powder).

The elaborate serpent design that occupies the centre stage is nothing but a work of art. The design is drawn by people from the vaidya community, who are adept at it. The designs are drawn in different dimensions of width depending on the type of ritual. They can be in four, eight and 16 circles. The shape need not be only circle as some opt for square or octagonal shape. There is a rule that only red, white, green, yellow and black colours should be used to draw the design, and the colours should be natural. The completed design with all the decoration is called as mandala and oil lamps are lit and placed all around it.

A huge gathering waits for the event to begin. After sunset, a procession is taken out from the nearby nagabana along with dancers. The procession is led by musicians playing an instrument called dakke and a pipe instrument. The dancers begin to dance moving in circles around the mandala. There are two groups of performers — paathri, who gets possessed after inhaling the areca flowers and nagakannika, who represents the female snake.

The paathri wears a red-coloured dhothi and the naga dancer wears a peculiar costume, which is half male and half female. The dance begins with singing, and interaction, in the form of question and answers, between the dancers. The dancers dance through the night and become ecstatic displaying intense emotions to the accompaniment of music. The devotees, sitting around the stage, watch the proceedings with utmost devotion and a feeling of submission. The entire event creates an awe-inspiring atmosphere.

Generally, nagamandala ritual goes on for two days and the snake dance is the main element of the entire show. People believe that the pleased snake god protects the region and wards off evil. Nagamandala events are normally organised during summer. They are  part of the cultural heritage of Tulu-speaking areas of the State.