Adventures on the edge of the Indian Ocean

Even for most Australians, the South-West coast of the country remains a place few have visited. Perth holds the distinction of being the most isolated major city in the world, as it’s a five-hour plane ride from Sydney. That is unfortunate, because this secluded corner of Australia boasts some of the most amazing seascapes, stunning sunsets, lush natural forests and great opportunities for adventure.

Margaret River exploration

Our local guide, a rangy, fast-talking character with trademark Aussie banter and a dry sense of humour, had us hooked from the start. Bundled into a 4WD, we set off eagerly. Abruptly, the vehicle turned off the highway and dived into the bordering eucalyptus forest, heading deeper into the tall stands of jarrah, karri and marri trees that block out the sunlight. We bumped along the rough trail until the driver brought the vehicle to a halt beside a clump of canoes cleverly hidden in the undergrowth.

We pushed a green metal canoe into the Margaret River, little more than a flat, shallow stream here, and drifted downstream. At times, we could see straight through to the bottom and the weeds, rocks and branches that broke the surface of the calm water. The paddling was easy, and it was a sparkling fall day with the sun shining brightly overhead as we wound our way slowly downriver. The guide pointed out freshwater Carter’s mussels clinging to the banks — a key indicator of pristine water conditions — and we even spotted a couple of local marron (freshwater crayfish), black as coal to camouflage themselves as they scuttled among the submerged rocks.

The 4WD plunged into yet another rough track and halted on a sandy patch. Right in front of us was the famous Cape-to-Cape Track, Australia’s longest coastal walk, stretching 135 km between the lighthouses at Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste. We scrambled along the rough trail, which cut through coastal heath and climbed the rocky outcrops at the top of the Wilyabrup Cliffs.

The guide gestured to the horizon, exclaiming that, “it was mind-boggling to imagine these cliffs had once been fused with the landmass of India 100 million years ago.” The panorama was breathtaking — the vast expanse of blue ocean gleaming in the setting sun, stretching to the horizon, with white breakers and pristine beaches below.

In the distance, a pod of dolphins dived and surfaced gracefully as they hunted, their movements marked by distant splashes.

Pemberton adventure

The next day, we drove another 135 kms to Pemberton, rounding the tip of South-West Australia to face the great Southern Ocean. After a quick stop for croissants and coffee at a local bakery, we piled into a spacious Toyota Hi-Ace bus converted to 4WD for the day’s adventure. Our driver-guide turned off onto a rough bush trail, and we plunged into tall stands of eucalyptus trees in Warren National Park. Once deep in the forest, we walked along the trail like Lilliputians in the land of giant karri trees that towered above us like a gang of Gullivers. Several tree trunks were blackened, and the guide explained that rangers have begun controlled burns to clear undergrowth and regenerate the forest. The trail sloped down to the Warren River, a shallow, placid stream meandering through lush undergrowth, wildflowers and colourful fungi. For the adventurous, there was even a climb to the top of the world’s highest fire lookout tree, using 182 iron pegs hammered into its trunk.

Our next stop was D’Entrecasteaux National Park, stretching 130 kms along the South-West coast with long white beaches, rugged limestone cliffs, wetlands and karri forests. Bemused by the elegant French name, I learned from the guide that it honours the French admiral who explored this remote corner in 1792. We strolled along a curved boardwalk that stretches 30 metres into Yeagarup Lake, a peaceful freshwater lake (its name translates as “Place of Wandering Spirit”). Before our next challenge, the tyres of the 4WD were deflated to adapt to shifting terrain.

Soon, we faced a giant wall of sand. The engine gunned as the bus powered forward, keeping low gear to grip the soft surface. The exhilarating ride ended atop the Yeagarup Dunes, a unique system of mobile sand dunes in the middle of the karri forest. Covering 30 sq km, the dunes move inland at 4 km a year, slowly swallowing forests and wetlands. The landscape was surreal — like Lawrence of Arabia set amid a tropical Heart of Darkness. A little further, the trail opened onto a magnificent panorama: the pristine white sands of Yeagarup Beach stretching in both directions, with the vast blue expanse of the Great Southern Ocean beyond. The guide shouted above the engine noise, “We always leave the best till last! No matter how many times I visit, the beauty of this place still takes my breath away.” We had the beach entirely to ourselves as the 4WD raced along the sand to the Warren River mouth.

Here, the full power and glory of Nature became apparent. As if escaping the turbulent sea, waves jostled in a race to shore, breaking in foam and froth. Channels appeared in the sand and vanished just as quickly. Even as we watched, the point where the river met the sea shifted and reshaped itself. I was utterly captivated by this awe-inspiring seascape — a powerful reminder of the impermanence of nature and life itself.

Note: Travellers can choose from several licensed tour operators in the region, who ensure safe and comfortable access to these extraordinary landscapes.