Echoes of India in Lisbon

Although Lisbon is a vibrant city, with its glorious climate, lively nightlife, and historic monuments blending traditional heritage with striking modernism, I was intrigued by how the Indian connection is woven into the tapestry of Portuguese history. Names like Vasco da Gama and Afonso de Albuquerque have long been familiar in India, dating back to the 1500s — well before the British made their mark!

Lisbon did not disappoint. Its most emblematic square, the Praça do Comércio (Square of Commerce), located on the Tagus Estuary, showcases the Casa da Índia (India House), an administrative building that once housed the central authority for managing Portugal’s overseas territories during the height of the Portuguese Empire. The Casa was the central shipment point and clearinghouse for trade between Portugal and its colonies in Africa, Asia, and the Americas. 

The Praça do Comércio is a large, rectangular square with symmetrical buildings arranged in a “U” shape, opening towards the river. At its centre stands the impressive equestrian statue of King José I of Portugal, flanked by two large towers. It’s a perfect spot to absorb the historical significance of Lisbon, though it’s also a lively hub with modern cafés and shops. Today, the square remains an important transportation hub, where I boarded my tram to the Belem district, a relaxed area on the Tagus River filled with landmarks that celebrate Portugal’s seafaring past.

Just a short ride from here, you’ll find the Afonso de Albuquerque Square, right in front of the Belem Palace, the residence of the President of Portugal. Named after the second Governor of Portuguese India, the square features a bronze statue of Afonso de Albuquerque, along with exhibits about his life. Surprisingly, Albuquerque was quite popular in India among his soldiers and the local population, thanks to his commitment to justice. He allowed people of different religious communities to retain their laws and representatives, encouraged his men to marry local women, and granted them land and dowries. His policies helped Goa thrive as the capital of the Portuguese State of India until its liberation in 1961. A short stroll further brings you to the Jeronimos Monastery, with some of the most beautiful cloisters in the world, a Unesco World Heritage site, and the most impressive symbol of Portugal’s erstwhile power and wealth.

A momentous night

It was here in Belem, in 1497, that Vasco da Gama spent his last night on land before embarking on his historic journey to India. The church at Jeronimos was eventually built to commemorate the safe return of Vasco da Gama and his men, with wealth pouring in from the Indian spice trade. The monastery’s grand structures were funded by the riches of the East.

The lower choir of the church is the final resting place of Vasco da Gama himself, famous for establishing the sea route to India and later becoming the Portuguese Viceroy of India. His tomb has become a patriotic shrine, akin to a national pantheon. While at the monastery, make sure to sample the Pastel de Nata — a Portuguese egg tart pastry dusted with cinnamon. It was first created by monks at the monastery using leftover egg yolks, which were in abundance because the nuns used egg whites to starch their habits. The descendants of the monks who created the recipe still run a business selling these delectable treats today.

Just across Avenida da India from the monastery stands the Belem Tower, another Unesco World Heritage monument and a symbol of Lisbon. Built at the mouth of the Tagus River, this small fort once guarded the city from seafaring raiders and served as the first sight of home for returning Portuguese sailors who had rounded the Cape of Good Hope on their way to India. The lower floors of the tower housed a prison, while the middle floors stored ammunition and armaments. The top floor offers stunning views of the river and intricate carvings, giving a glimpse into Lisbon’s maritime past.

Shades of Goa’s Fontainhas

Looking out over the river, I realised that the Portuguese colonists must have felt at home in Panjim (now Panaji), with its own river, the Mandovi, resembling Lisbon’s Tagus.

The narrow streets of Panaji’s Fontainhas neighbourhood, with its whitewashed churches, tiny shops, and inviting restaurants, mimic Lisbon’s Alfama district, famous for its winding alleys and vibrant cultural life. Alfama is best explored on foot, but when I grew weary, I hopped onto one of Lisbon’s iconic trams or funiculars, which wind through the city’s oldest quarters — Alfama, Bairro Alto, and Baixa. The narrow roads are filled with souvenir shops, tiny bars, and cafés, where I enjoyed a hearty Portuguese meal accompanied by fado, the haunting style of music inspired by the sorrow of sailors’ wives.

One monument that’s visible from nearly every corner of the city is the Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George’s Castle), a Moorish hilltop fortification with stone walls. The castle has one significant Indian connection: it was here that Vasco da Gama was received by King Manuel in 1499, after he voyaged to India, in the underground chambers of the Alcaçovas Palace — only remnants of which remain today. Walking through the castle’s corridors, viewing antiques and artefacts, and climbing the towers for panoramic views reminded me of just how remarkable Lisbon is. It’s no surprise that it’s considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

Towards the end of my trip, however, I had one regret — no one I spoke to in Lisbon seemed to have heard of Goa, or appeared to care. Despite the shared history and the indelible connections between Portugal and India, that knowledge seemed lost on the younger generations.