The wild side of Ooty

Explore the unspoiled Nilgiris with pristine forests, charming villages, scenic treks, and a nostalgic ride on the heritage toy train, writes Akber Ayub

The lights dimmed at 10 pm. Shortly after, the distant hum of the generator faded, and almost instantly, the forest reclaimed the night. An amber halo from the hurricane lamp hanging on a pole in front of my log hut struggled to cut through the growing darkness, casting an eerie glow. Beyond, two similarly designed cabins, perched on stilts and unoccupied, looked forlorn in the pale light of the half-moon. Further ahead, a row of military-style tents sat on elevated platforms along a winding path, their own hurricane lamps standing guard.

Amid rustling leaves and cracking branches, the forest came alive. Insects, birds, and night creatures, awakened by the sudden onset of darkness, filled the air with their sounds. Over the soft patter of rain on foliage, an owl hooted intermittently. The raucous cry of a barking deer joined in, while restless simians leapt across tree limbs, creating a brief commotion.

I’ve always found a strange peace in the embrace of raw nature. Eager to get a closer look at the wild Nilgiris, I checked into this jungle lodge in the late evening, a perfect getaway on the outskirts of Ooty. After a modest dinner under a tent, I retired to my log hut for the night.

Up at the crack of dawn, I stepped out of my cabin in a hurry, lugging a backpack with the essentials for the day. It was still a while before dawn broke, but the air was filled with the soft chirping of birds. The gnarled old trees whispered under the intermittent gusts as I made my way towards Glenmorgan.

For those who seek a deeper connection with nature, who are adventurous enough to veer off the beaten path, the outlying areas of these mountains — part of the Western Ghats and a Unesco-declared ecological hotspot — offer hidden gems. These places, unspoiled and pristine, feature stunning vistas and serene beauty that will touch you in a way no ordinary tourist spot can. Glenmorgan, Western Catchment, Parson’s Valley, Pukurthi Forest Reserve, Moyar, Singara, and Segur Falls are just a few of the lesser-known but must-see spots within 40 kms of Ooty. Snowden Peak on the Kotagiri Road offers breathtaking views of Mysuru, Wenlock Downs, and Kalhatty Falls. The list goes on — Avalanche, around 28 kms from Ooty, is a paradise for nature lovers, although the lake has been closed off since a landslide years ago. These places are particularly magical at twilight when they lie veiled in dream-like splendour.

The British colonialists were among the first to recognise the Nilgiri Mountains’ beauty. The history of Ooty begins with John Sullivan, the Collector of Coimbatore, who sent two surveyors, Keys and McMohan, to explore the area. Impressed by the region’s natural beauty, Sullivan himself ventured further into the Ghats. Soon, they began clearing forests and building roads, and he constructed the first English house in Ooty, the Stone House, which remains one of the most famous landmarks today. The British were so captivated by Ooty’s scenery that they made it the summer capital of the Madras Presidency. As a local guide once told me, “Later, the Madras Regiment of the Indian Army was stationed here, and the station remains there to this day.”

Returning to my trip, I mostly ignored the surrounding countryside as I sped along the interstate highway towards Glenmorgan. Though only 20 kms from my lodge and about 35 kms from Ooty, Glenmorgan felt far removed from the town’s hustle and bustle. The name conjures images of idyllic English countryside — sweeping grasslands, meadows, and rolling hills — completed with a scenic lake, rugged mountains in the backdrop, and a small cluster of quaint cottages.

There was little traffic at this time, and I zipped through the morning air, my car gliding effortlessly on the smooth tarmac. I’d secured permission from the Electricity Board the previous day, and the guard at the entrance waved me through without a fuss. The dam here lies deep inside a tea estate and supplies water to the Pykara Power Plant. A trekking trail leads from here to the Pykara Junction powerhouse, passing through tea estates and tribal villages, offering stunning views of hills, valleys, and even the Mudumalai National Park. But you’ll need prior approval from the forest department to hike this trail. There’s also a ropeway offering panoramic views, though you’d need authorisation from the Electricity Board superintendent at Kundah to take that ride. Other trekking routes include Longwood Shola, Karikkayur to Rangaswamy Peak, Parsons Valley to Mukurthihut, and a few others. Trekkers must pre-register their names on www.trektamilnadu.com, with tribal guides often accompanying the expeditions. If you love the idea of driving through picturesque woodlands, outlying hamlets like Kinnakorai and Mulli on the Kerala border offer beautiful drives. The joy here isn’t just in reaching a destination but in experiencing the tranquil ride through densely wooded forests with hardly a vehicle in sight. By midday, I was back on the road, heading towards Kalhatti Falls, located around 15 kms from Ooty. From the Kalahatti village, a two-mile trek is required to reach the falls. A local forest guard shared, “This route is a birdwatcher’s paradise, but you’ll need to watch out for the occasional wild animal.”

No trip to the Nilgiris would be complete without a ride on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, a Unesco World Heritage site. The train’s tracks wind through lush green landscapes, disappearing behind rolling hills, the crisp air filled with the fragrance of eucalyptus trees standing tall like silent sentinels. As the train snakes through dark tunnels, the rhythmic sound of the locomotive’s exhaust fills the air, and the passengers’ excited shouts echo.

The narrow metre-gauge train, which takes 46 kms from Mettupalayam at the foot of the Nilgiris to Ooty, is often referred to as a “toy train” due to its diminutive size and slow pace. A Swiss-made steam engine, which completed the journey in more than five hours when it first ran in 1908, still powers the train today. The century-old viaducts and bridges are unsuitable for heavier diesel engines, so vintage steam engines continue to make the journey, except on the Coonoor-Ooty stretch, where diesel engines take over.

The train travels at a leisurely 30 km/h on flat stretches, slowing to a crawl of 13 km/h while climbing steep gradients. “The train uses a rack and pinion system,” says the station master at Lovedale, “which ensures it doesn’t slip backwards on the steep climbs.” The train leaves Mettupalayam at 7 am, stopping at quaint stations like Kallar, Adderley Hilligrove, Runnymede, Kateri Coonoor, Wellington, and Lovedale before reaching Ooty by noon. Many of these stations still rely on sturdy but old equipment set up by the British. And, of course, who could forget the famous “Chaiyya Chaiyya” song from Dil Se that was filmed atop this very train?