Fashion as liberation: Breaking the gender mould

Fashion and beauty have long been empowering tools for self-expression. They are arenas where identity is claimed, contested, and celebrated. Yet, for the transgender community, these realms have historically been a space where their identity is often marginalised and sometimes claimed. As the transgender community in India stands at the confluence of legal recognition and hardwired historical biases, the emergence of trans and non-binary voices in the fashion and beauty industries is both a revolution and a revival. However, despite recent advancements, challenges endure. Many transgender individuals are still struggling with inadequate access to marketplaces and consumerism that cater to cisgendered mainstream. Systemic marginalisation, along with socio-cultural discrimination, contributes to their lack of representation and othering. This under-representation of the transgender community not only affects their personal growth, entangled with the notion of self and society, but also highlights the apathy of mainstream society and the autonomy of the neoliberal State, floundering to address the concerns of transgender people.

The Hijra community, one of the prominent gender-diverse communities in India, asserts to have once held a revered place in Mughal courts and in sacred Hindu texts. However, colonial rule cast a long criminalising shadow on gender non-conformity, further marginalising these communities. The Criminal Tribes Act of 1871 labelled them as ‘social deviants’, systematically placing them at the fringe of mainstream socio-cultural tapestry. Post-independence, despite legal reforms, the stigma associated with transgender people was inherited by the cis-oriented society. Yet, within the folds of this subjugation, transgender individuals continued to find solace in fashion—a medium through which they could articulate an expression of self that is denied to them. Their sartorial fashion—characterised by extravagant garbs, elaborate jewellery, and bold makeup—is an assertion of identity and a statement of resilience against societal norms.

In 2014, the Supreme Court of India recognised transgender identities apart from the male-female binary in the NALSA vs UoI verdict. This sparked renewed conversations regarding gender diversity and a change of lenses concerning fashion and beauty narratives. Transgender models and influencers emerged as cultural icons, challenging conventions and redefining aesthetics.

Anjali Lama, the first transgender model to walk at Lakme Fashion Week, is an inspiring story. Her arrival on the runway was more than personal—it was a social landmark demonstrating the changing tides of acceptance. Similarly, Nitasha Biswas, India’s first transgender beauty queen, has used her platform to advocate for inclusivity in the fashion industry, pushing brands to embrace diverse representations of beauty standards.

Fashion in India has long been dictated by rigid gender binaries, with traditional menswear and womenswear outlining strict boundaries. However, several contemporary designers are destabilising these fashion norms through the introduction of androgynous fashion.

Designers like Gaurav Gupta and Aneeth Arora have incorporated gender-neutral elements into their collections, allowing gender-fluid silhouettes and non-traditional fashion to emerge. Saisha Shinde, one of India’s prominent transgender fashion designers, has been vocal about the intersection of fashion and identity. Their effort challenges the deeply entrenched gender norms of dividing bodies through sartorial choices. Moreover, the streetwear movement in India is adopting gender nonconformity, with brands like Bobo Calcutta and NorBlack NorWhite redefining traditional ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ aesthetics. These shifts are not merely about clothing and fashion, but they represent a deeper social and cultural awareness concerning gender expansiveness.

Makeup, another industry traditionally associated with cisgender women, is undergoing a radical transformation. In the era of social media, transgender and non-binary persons are able to express their interest in makeup through these platforms. Non-binary influencers such as Sushant Divgikar (Rani Ko-He-Nur) and Durga Gawde have carved out spaces for themselves, inspiring others. Their bold looks and unapologetic self-expression challenge the notion that beauty conforms to binary expectations.

Mainstream brands are slowly recognising this shift. International giants like MAC and Fenty Beauty have long championed inclusivity, and Indian brands are now beginning to follow suit. Nykaa and Myntra, for instance, have taken steps towards diversity by featuring transgender influencers in their campaigns. This shows the acknowledgement of the purchasing power and presence of the community in the beauty landscape as well as their economic participation.

Fashion and beauty are more than clothes and skin; they are political tools of self-affirmation, agency and the right to representation. Representation in fashion and beauty is a step towards broader acceptance and equity.

On this International Transgender Day of Visibility, it is imperative to celebrate non-binary fashion and beauty as instruments of empowerment and societal transformation, especially against the backdrop of the Trump government’s anti-transgender mandate. In this unfolding narrative, fashion and beauty are not just about looking good but about being acknowledged and accepted. Trans-fashion has undergone historical reverence, colonial erasure, and a contemporary resurgence. This is a profound demonstration of resilience and reclaiming their space in a society that has long oscillated between marginalisation and celebration.

(Swarupa is a human rights lawyer, academic and trans-ally. Aniket is an
assistant professor of sociology and co-director of the Centre for Study of Social Inclusion at NLSIU Bengaluru)