GiriManja's: A tale of rich family legacy and well-guarded fish fry recipe

The unlimited seafood thali at this Mangaluru eatery is legendary

Special tawa fry with fish varieties like anjal, seer, pomfret and banguda instantly are a massive hit. Credit: Deepa Shri Rajan

Coated with their secret masala, the golden-fried prawns are spicy and crisp. Credit: Deepa Shri Rajan

Everyone who knows Mangaluru knows GiriManja's. The eatery, located in the busy narrow lanes of Lower Car Street, has served sumptuous seafood thalis for almost four decades for just Rs 60. Rich in old-world charm, this tiny restaurant, which started as a mess in 1984, is an integral part of the city's culinary scene.

The enormous blue Pepsi hoarding at the entrance of the 70-year-old building may draw you in at first. However, the aroma of the fish tawa fry and the sight of their unlimited seafood thali—laden with kokum rasam, dal, three vegetable sides, fish curry and steamed rice—is what will make you stay on.

Waiters scurry back and forth from the kitchen, carrying plates of steaming hot fish curry and rice to keep up with the orders. The red oxide flooring and rustic seating of two long wooden tables facing each other make for a communal eating experience.

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GiriManja's specialises in Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) cuisine. Locals and travellers across the country drop in here to experience the Mangaluru GSB style food. Every thali has a thick slice of fresh fish in curry, but people love to order GiriManja's signature tawa fries that are delicate, spicy and melt-in-mouth. The golden-fried prawns are yet another popular traditional preparation. Coated with their secret masala, the prawns are spicy and crisp.

After treating themselves to the seafood delicacies, people ritualistically end the meal with the 'Bonda lime', a soothing medley of tender coconut water and lime juice, priced at Rs 20.

"My father-in-law Giridhar Pai started the eatery in 1984 as a mess serving seafood thalis and deep-fried fish," said Nandini Pai, the current owner of GiriManja's. "Originally, he used to be a fruit merchant; however, his passion for serving people GSB style seafood made him start this eatery."

In 2002, Giridhar passed away, and his son Manjunath Pai, fondly known as Manjanna by the locals, took over the place, curated his own secret masala and created the fish tawa fry.

His special tawa fry with fish varieties like anjal, seer, pomfret, prawns, and banguda instantly became a massive hit. Even today, seafood lovers patiently wait for at least an hour for their turn to be served.

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"In 1984, when my father-in-law founded this eatery, it did not even have a name, but in 2002, my husband Manjunath named the restaurant GiriManja's after his father and him."

In 2015, Manjunath died from a heart attack, following which his wife took over the restaurant. Quitting her clerical job at the Canara PU college, she is carrying forward her family's culinary traditions.

She is hospitable and devoted to giving her customers what they want, but she is guarded when it comes to the recipe of the fish tawa fry. "It's coated with a freshly ground secret wet masala, fried in coconut oil and served with dollops of love" is all she will reveal.

(Deepa Shri Rajan is a food, travel and lifestyle blogger and Instagrammer based out of Bengaluru)

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