Eco-friendly jewellery is in

These pieces are made with recycled silver and in keeping with ethical production practices

‘Moon string’, a sustainable jewellery collection by Ahmedabad-based Creyons. It was made by artisans in Jaipur, Delhi and Kolkata. Credit: Special arrangement

The silver jewellery collection from Nomad has a raw yellow gold look. Credit: Special arrangement

In the jewellery-making business, sustainability refers to anything from using precious metals that are ethically mined to reusing existing metals. It can also mean hand making every product using artisanal methods, which are non-toxic with low energy requirements.

Many brands share about their green methods of production with DH on Saturday.

Modern touch

Ahmedabad-based studio Baka, started by Rebecca Reubens, works with waste material like silver scrap, as much as possible. Amidst the pandemic, Rebecca created a jewellery collection to provide artisans with job opportunities. When this was received well, she started the brand.

Baka focuses on contemporary styles while also drawing inspiration from Indian culture —
one of the main inspirations is silver itself.

Their last collection called Avani Gold, is a take on the Indian tradition of using tiger claws and talismans. “Our aim was to keep items such as culturally relevant artifacts like tiger claw jewellery, feasible by making them from sustainable and green materials,” she says. The collection contains one-of-a-kind pendants and earrings.

Their latest collection called Heart, is inspired by the anatomy of the organ. “As someone who likes to design unconventional pieces, I chose to give a different touch to the idea of hearts in
jewellery,” she says.

Rebecca sources her gemstones from a women-led enterprise based out of Jaipur. “The designing process can take anything from five days to years, with the new anatomical heart collection being three years in the making. She says, “Since trends are momentary and keep changing, I wanted to take some time in the designing process,” she says. She also customises and repairs jewellery.

Vintage charm

Delhi-based Nomad by Harshita Gautam, makes silver and textile jewellery. The textile jewellery is made from the waste generated in their clothes manufacturing unit.

She says, “We try to use everything, even the shreds.” The Makutu textile jewellery collection has everything from earrings, neckpieces, hair adornments, rings, bracelets and so much more, all from textiles that would otherwise go to waste.

Their silver jewellery collection is inspired by old times and retains old values — it is called ‘Nani ki silver jewellery’. She says, “We don’t focus on making it look antique, like dusted gold. We give our pieces a raw yellow gold look.”

A lot of brides have also found head to toe looks in silver jewellery here, adds Harshita. “Our designs are inspired by old-world pattra filigree work,” says Harshita who takes about a week to bring the designs to life.

Wanting to stay truly sustainable, Harshita avoids plastic, even in her packaging. “Our jewellery is packed in tin boxes, which often excite customers more than the pieces themselves,” she adds.

Blending traditions and trends

Ahmedabad-based Creyons combines reuse with innovation in her designs. “I don’t like to make new designs as this causes more wastage. I reuse designs. Our last collection used glass in it, but I kept old motifs from the previous collection in it as well. The upcoming collection will include old glass with new beads,” she says.

Mansi designs every piece herself and the process takes 30 to 45 days. Their last collection was inspired by Afghan jewellery. “Making glass jewellery is no easy task. We had to find artisans from all over the country who would cut glass and dye it the way we wanted,” she says.

Artisans from Jaipur, Delhi and Kolkata, work on these designs. “They make wristlets, earrings, nose charms, pendants and the other usual jewellery. We also have embellished ties, waist belts, head accessories, unisex brooches, artisanal rakhis and lumbas,” she says.

Nostalgic trip

Bauble Love from Bengaluru, started by Akanksha Chauhan, designs and crafts heirloom-inspired pieces of jewellery, which is reminiscent of the past. Started in 2017, the studio works “on a collaborative approach where designs are a mixture of its vision with the artisan’s craftsmanship”.

Akanksha says, “Our designs are an amalgamation of traditional techniques with modern design.” Taking around three months to turn an idea to a design, her goal “is to define how classic designs can last a lifetime”.

The brand also offers jewellery designs in varied craft forms like Kundan, Naveli, Afghan, Lambhani and Turkmen. “We have earrings, necklaces, chokers, rings, nose pins and hair accessories, in varied themes,” she says.

“Our jewellery is cyclic, meaning every product can be broken down and can go back to the raw material it was earlier. Nothing is wasted,” she says.

Constant struggles

“Most people assume that since these designs can be found anywhere, they shouldn’t purchase them. We have to explain to them that these designs are better for the environment,” says Mansi.

Rebecca claims that the real problem “is proving credibility as compared to other brands that make false claims of being green”.

She adds, “Thankfully, people are increasingly aware about resources becoming scarce.”

Longevity

These pieces last longer as they are handmade, say the designers.
Akanksha says, “Anything made with human effort is time consuming and rewarding, hence it will have a longer life cycle in comparison to factory mass-produced pieces.”