Buzz by the coastline

Colonial kochi

I peeped out of the flight window and saw the mighty Periyar meandering her way across the lush green acres of land dominated by coconut trees — a tree which has come to symbolise this part of the geography.

Just when this scenic view made me think that I may still be far from the frenzy of the city, I heard the whirr of the landing gears preparing my descent. My travel was taking me to a hugely popular tourist destination of Kerala, Fort Kochi.

On reaching Fort Kochi, the first impression I got was that of a tiny fishing island in an idyllic setting. But within its narrow streets and rustic houses lie history, culture and alluring landscapes waiting to be explored.

Abutting the Arabian Sea, Fort Kochi has been a significant part of Kerala’s history, and home to not just the Portuguese but also the Dutch, British, Arabs and Jewish, who have left their imprints in every part and every structure of this quaint little place.

The early bird gets the worm; in Fort Kochi, we were told that the early tourist gets the first catch of the day. We started our day by strolling along the scenic coastline and enjoying the light sea breeze, before the sun came out in its full blaze. The coastline was dotted with Chinese fishing nets, a type that’s captured on every postcard of Kochi, being so distinctive to this place.

This is an enormous net that is lowered into the sea by wooden levers and after a few minutes, lifted up by three to four mighty men, whose bulky arms and calves show their experience in this trade. Crows eagerly waiting in the thicket of trees swoop down at the right moment (probably by experience), just before the net is fully hoisted up, grab a fish or two — still wriggling in the water that’s left — and fly back to their green homes.

The air was filled with the smell of fresh fish, in various sizes, shapes and species, being sorted out and taken in baskets for sale. We also saw a few big lobsters, which brought a gratifying smile on the fishermen’s faces.

Street views

After watching this unique fishing game, we headed out to explore this beautiful island where there is a slice of history in almost every corner of the uniquely named streets like Rose Street, Lily Street, Princess Street... The houses, each quite identical to another with whitewashed exteriors and dull-red sloping roofs, took us back to the colonial era. The use of wood in their heavy doors and old-fashioned windows reflects the fusion with the traditional Kerala architecture.

A walk down St Francis Road took us to St Francis Church, the oldest European church built in India, with its history dating back to the 1500s. Built by the Portuguese, it was here that Vasco da Gama was buried;  his remains were then taken to Lisbon. Its interiors are quite modest; stained-glass paintings adorn the altar and the tombstone of Vasco Da Gama is preserved.

Our next stop was Santa Cruz Basilica, another church with a historical background. It has a Gothic style of architecture with attractive spires at the entrance. Stained-glass paintings in rich hues are used on the altar and the windows. Colourful murals and frescos decking the gothic-style pillars and domes depict important events of Christianity.

Community calling

After a lazy lunch, we headed out to Jew Street, named after its Jewish inhabitants, of whom only a handful are now based in Fort Kochi. As we sauntered along the narrow, busy lanes lined with large slabs of stones, we were interrupted by vendors who were selling curios and artefacts of all sorts — wooden elephants, marble souvenirs, brass lamps, antique jewellery, colourful postcards, hand-painted china and even cute little door knobs.

We tried not to get carried away by their offers. But we were definitely carried away by the heady scent of spices from the spice market. Pulling ourselves away from the sights and smells of the market, we reached the Jewish synagogue, now mainly a tourist attraction. The non-descriptive exterior  contrasted the interior, which had hanging oil lamps, chandeliers and bright blue tiles that give a charming appeal to the place.

After going through several bits of history, we decided to spend our evening by relaxing at the Fort Kochi beach. We went back to the same place where we had begun our exploration in the morning, only to find that it now teemed with people — both locals and tourists — food carts and tea shops that sold pazham pori (banana fritter), a local favourite. We walked past the crowds and reached the vast expanse of the sandy beach, the waves rejuvenating us after our stroll.

Watching the blue sea stretching endlessly, lights flickering from the mighty ships that seemed to shrink as they journeyed away from the shore, we listened to the murmuring waves as the golden yellow sun sank in the horizon, spreading its glow all around.

Just like the waves that reached the shores and became one with the land, the different travellers to this place through the centuries made it their abode, giving Fort Kochi its cultural diversity.