×
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT

What degree is your coffee?

LIVING IN THE KITCHEN
Last Updated 02 August 2013, 14:27 IST

Narayani Menon traces the life and fame of the good old south Indian filter coffee

Did you know that high-quality coffee was called “degree coffee” in South India? In the olden days, milk that was certified as pure with a lactometer was called “degree milk”, and coffee that was prepared with this milk became popular as “degree coffee”. The coffee that was decocted for the first time before mixing with the milk, was known as “first degree coffee” because it was very strong and flavourful unlike “second and third degree coffee” that undergo decoction more than once. It is said that the first degree coffee was the affluent’s cup of tea (or should we say coffee?), while the second and third was that of the common man’s. Often, this kind of coffee also had a certain amount of chicory in it. Arabica variety of coffee beans scores high on taste and flavour, and thus it is the top choice of beans for the Kumbakonam degree/filter coffee.

These days, with the thousands of high end coffee shops in the metros of India, you have to know the name of the coffee drinks you want to order. The latest addition to this list is an Indian contribution Kumbakonam Degree Coffee, which is having a revival in the southern states specializing in filter coffee. Although it is said that this form of filter coffee has been in vogue for long, only recently did coffee shops start specializing in this variety.

The moot point seems to be that the filter coffee aficionados in the southern states seems to have woken upto the fact that ever since ‘low fat’ milk was introduced in the milk pouches, they have missed the taste of ‘full cream’ milk coffee. Till the Operation Flood Programme in 70s and 80s, fresh cow milk was available in all cities of south India.

And filter coffee garnished with this fresh milk was a class of its own. What coffee lovers have so far been unable to find out though is how the name of the Kumbakonam town got added to this type of coffee. While you find the Kumbakonam Degree Coffee advertised across many streets of south India, there is no such shop in the city of Kumbakonam in Tamil Nadu!

Here’s how to concoct this famed Kumbakonam degree coffee (Source: Rak’s Kitchen):

Prep time: 15 mins
Cook time: 5 mins 
Serves: 3

*For making perfect decoction, choose the correct filter size, depending on the cups of coffee required. In this case add 3-4 heaped teaspoons of coffee powder in the perforated upper part. This also depends on how much coffee decoction you need. I roughly calculated that 1 & 1/2 tsp for a person. But can’t make single serving only and so make extra, to make the decoction quality better. Heat required water to fill the filter and let it start to boil. Add it to the filter and fill up to the rim and close immediately with the lid.

*Adding coffee powder, press gently with the plate with handle.I use my fingers to do this to keep the pressure we apply in my control. Otherwise I sometimes press too hard, then the water won’t get through the powder if too much pressure is applied and pressed. So be gentle while you press. If you press too loose, then the water gets through so fast and the decoction won’t be strong (thick). It will be very diluted.

*Heat required water to fill the filter and let it start to boil. Add it to the filter and fill up to the rim and close immediately with the lid.

*Wait for 15 minutes - 1/2 hour. Collect the 1st degree decoction and keep covered. If you want you can again add hot water and brew second time.

*Boil milk well, and then froth the milk with sugar once.

*Add required amount decoction say and froth well. Let it be hot. So don’t do for long time.

(Note: To get to the authentic mood of the filter coffee, always use “Dabara tumbler” to serve it in.)


Rajeswari Vijayanand, a veteran home cook and author of the blog Rak’s Kitchen, offers some tips to make the most authentic degree coffee:

*Choose correct filter size, you have to atleast fill quarter and add water accordingly. If you add too much water then the strength of the decoction might not be thick enough.

*By chance your first brewed decoction gets dripped fast and is too thin, immediately pour the collected thin decoction again in the filter and brew for the thick one. The flavour may have to be compromised this way. But just in case.

*If by chance your coffee decoction never collects down ,in case you pressed too hard the coffee powder, just gently tap the filter carefully on the rim.

*If you have any left-over decoction or you want to make it in bulk and store for future use, just add 1/4 tsp sugar in it and keep it covered in the fridge.

*Sometimes, the pores in the filter get stuck with the coffee powder. So, you will have to clean it up with a needle point. Also, immerse the filter in boiling water weekly once or so. That will help maintain the cleanliness of the vessel.

*Never re-heat coffee! Remember the adage “Coffee boiled is coffee spoiled”? It won’t taste good. Simply boil milk on stove top as it keeps hot for longer than boiling it in a microwave oven.

*Always use fresh milk. If you live in a city where fresh milk is hard to come by, use Amul Diamond Milk (7 percent fat) - it is by far the best alternative to fresh milk.

ADVERTISEMENT
(Published 02 August 2013, 14:27 IST)

Follow us on

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT