Where nature reigns supreme

A little girl in a bright yellow frock sits on a charpoy frowning at me as I take her photograph. Her mother walks by, holding a hand-woven basket filled with sprouts. School students jump out of a bus with the same excitement as that of a swarm of bees. The market is colourful, filled with sacred offerings to the deity at Banashankari, the temple near Badami.

The temple is an 18th century Maratha monument dedicated to Goddess Banashankari. An incomplete sanctuary dated to the late Chalukya period stands here as well. My attention, however, is taken by a huge tank and a mantapa located in the premises. A few feet away is a three-storeyed lamp tower, with delicately carved arches with curved brackets for lamps.

But Banashankari is not my destination. It is my first stop on my way to Aihole from Badami and seeing it crowded, I quickly move on to my next temple on the list – Mahakuta. The moment I enter the portals of Mahakuta, I feel like I am stepping into an ancient world. Tall banyan trees in the temple premises give a sense of being part of the landscape ever since the temple complex came  up.

Natural setting
Lending a serene touch to this temple complex is a tank located right in the middle and trees that surround it. The sun’s rays gently filter through the branches. The tank is fed by a revered natural spring. There are several temples in the complex and all of them are dedicated to various forms of Shiva.

So, you have Mahakuteshwara Temple, which was built around late 7th century, Sangameshwara Temple, Virupakeshwara Temple and Mallikarjuna Temple besides several other smaller shrines. Temples here are built in a unique hybrid style that is both Dravidian (South Indian) and Nagara (North Indian) in nature.

I am a tad disappointed to see Mahakuteshwara Temple, one of the most revered temples, standing so out of place in this sepia-toned background. Coated with a white paint, it seems to have lost  its architectural beauty. To my delight, the outer walls still preserve the original carvings of battle scenes. Two armed forms of Shiva are carved on the walls reflecting the early Chalukyan representation of the deity. The statue of nandi stands on a little pavilion in front of the temple.

Similar, yet unique
Several idols are standing either around the tank or below the trees. I move on to  Sangameshwara Temple, built in Nagara style. Forms of Shiva such as  Harihara and Ardhanarishwara are carved here. Next in the line is Virupakeshwara Temple built in a similar style.

Mallikarjuna Temple is similar to Mahakuteshwara Temple. Unlike other temples, it retains its original flavour. The niches here depict four-armed forms of Shiva. Inscriptions in this temple complex throw more light on the era.

The temples are more than just a pilgrimage centre or historic monuments. The serene surroundings soothes our  mind and body. Sitting here, under the shade of trees, watching boys splashing around, I feel a certain calmness inside me.

Its almost like a dense forest cover as trees form shadows on the temple walls and the sun filters through the canopy. And watching the dance of nature as the branches gently nod to the breeze, I wonder if this is the true essence of spirituality. Mahakuta is about 13 km from Badami on the way to Aihole.