In reverence

Some of the oldest mosques have withstood the test of time and are not just revered but are also landmarks, writes Mohammed Mirza

The Deccan region, a major portion of which falls in South India, has been home to many Muslim kingdoms. Among the many contributions of the Muslim rulers of this region include its magnificent mosques. However, not all of these mosques are functioning today. They serve as mere landmarks. Some of these mosques have their lands encroached and others fare even worse as they have been vandalised to such an extent that they can’t be identified anymore.

British author Henry Cousens reported that during the time of Ibrahim Adil Shah II the city of Bijapur (Vijayapura) alone, which was the capital of the Bijapur Sultanate, was home to 1,600 mosques. Historian Maruti Kamble in his 2012 research paper reports that currently, only 45 mosques dating from the era of the Bijapur Sultanate survive. This is bound to happen when a mosque is closed for congregations.

Charminar, Hyderabad

The story goes that a huge plague had taken over the city. The sovereign of the time Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah prayed to the Almighty to take the plague away. Once the plague was over, the erstwhile ruler in recognition of the miraculous disappearance of the plague constructed a grand mosque in 1591 AD that was unlike any other before it. As opposed to most mosques that have minarets beside them, the Charminar Mosque rests atop its four minarets. Today, a lot of tourists visit it but they only visit the first floor. The second floor, which is where the mosque is housed, has been cordoned off for visitors. What’s even more astounding is the fact that many including those who reside in Hyderabad don’t even know that it was a mosque.

Great Mosque at Qutb Shahi
Tombs, Hyderabad

The Qutb Shahi Tombs are one of the most prominent tourist sites in Hyderabad. The royal necropolis is home to several mosques ­— the Great Mosque is the largest one amongst them. Constructed in 1666 AD the Great Mosque stands next to the tomb of celebrated Queen Regent Hayat Bakshi Begum. Of all the mosques of the Deccan Sultanates, the most intricate minarets were always of those that were built by the Qutb Shahis. The minarets of this mosque testify to their architectural prowess.

Solah Khamba Mosque, Bidar

It is unfortunate to see that a mosque, perhaps the biggest of its time in India, is barred with iron rods on each and every one of its arched entrances. It is called Solah Khamba (Sixteen Pillars) after the sixteen pillars that form the mosque’s facade. It was constructed between 1423 and 1424 AD by the Bahamani ruler Qubil Sultani. During its heydays, the mosque served as the prime Jumma (Friday) Mosque of Bidar. A notable architectural feature of this mosque is its imposing dome that is raised on a high clerestory with windows made of perforated screens carrying exquisite geometric patterns.

Grand Mosque, Firozabad

The ruined town of Firozabad in Karnataka that lies 32 km to the southwest of Gulbarga was once a royal pleasure resort for the Bahamani sultans and owing to its location served as the halting grounds for the Bahamani troops. The Grand Mosque of Firozabad was one of the largest mosques in India. Today, local farmers grow lentils and other crops within the mosque’s massive walled enclosures. Its massive arcaded walls continue to deteriorate after hundreds of years of negligence by the local authorities.

Grand Mosque, Firozabad

Gol Gumbaz Mosque, Vijayapura

No tourism brochure of Karnataka is complete without the splendid Gol Gumbaz. Thousands of tourists visit it on a daily basis but perhaps it is due to its sheer size and captivating view that a mosque that stands right next to it gets neglected. The refined architectural style of the Adil Shahi Dynasty that is evident in the later constructions by them are visible in this elegant mosque. The slender minarets, deep cornices and high dome make it worthy of being a tourist attraction in and of itself.

Bijapur Mosque (Jumma Masjid), Vijayapura. PHOTO BY AUTHOR