When a 'Tagore Bahu' introduced blouse to Bengali women and revolutionised saree

New Delhi: Long before Rabindranath Tagore's name became synonymous with Indian literature and philosophy, the daughters-in-law of the Tagore household lit the torch of change and were early influences in the young poet's life - especially Jnanadanandini Devi, the wife of his elder brother Satyendranath Tagore.

In the 1860s, then-Calcutta's Bamabodhini magazine put out an advertisement, proposing a "new way" of putting on a saree that accompanied a blouse, a slip, petticoat, broach and shoes.

Soon after the advertisement, Bengali women made a beeline outside Jnandanandini's house to buy the "controversial" blouse and to learn the modern way of draping a saree, reveals a new book by journalist-author Animesh Mukherjee.

"Thakurbari: Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore ka Kutumb Vritant", published by Penguin in Hindi, chronicles anecdotes from the influential Tagore family long before the poet became an internationally recognised name.

"Jnanda had proclaimed a day will come when every Bengali girl will wear a saree like this," Mukherjee writes in the book.

In a mix of Bengali, Gujarati and Parsi style, Jnanda's saree had a blouse, a petticoat and pleats in the front, more importantly the 'pallah' would fall over the left shoulder. The style became so popular that it became the default way of draping a saree across India.

"Interestingly, Jnanda's style was called uncultured, obscene and bad. Almost 150 years later, it has become part of the culture and everything else obscene," the book reads.

Jnanda's contribution to society goes beyond introducing a style of saree, she was among the first who opened the doors of education for the women of Tagore family.

Jnanda married Satyendranath at the young age of seven, at a time it was believed a literate woman eventually becomes a widow.

Rabindranath's elder brother is also credited as the driving force behind Jnanda's progressive mindset.

Satyendranath, who was in London for studies, realised the world had run past and people back home were still living in the middle ages. He wrote to his father, Debendranath, to send Jnanda to London for education.

Although Debendranath did not entirely give in to his son's demands, he did allow Jnanda to study at home, under a veil.

"Not long after, it became a common practice for daughters and daughters-in-law of Thakurbari to go to school and study," Mukherjee writes.

Meanwhile, Satyendranath continued to write to Jnanda back home, turning her into a "liberal" woman.

At one point, Satyendranath argued with his father to send Jnanda with him to then-Bombay.

In Bombay, Jnanda not only learned the modern saree style but also started wearing salwar-kameez, "something that is still looked down upon in many north Indian Hindu families".

In the coming years, Jnanda travelled to London with her three sons in toe and when she returned to Thakurbari as a woman without a veil, walking without inhibitions, "not just women of the household but the servants too started crying, for they now had to go to hell having seen all that".

"She started talking about women empowerment and gender equality after her return. It caused so much discord in the family that she had to live in a rented house in the neighbourhood," Mukherjee writes.

It is believed to be the first case of a nuclear family, separate from the traditional joint family structure, he adds.

During her lifetime, Jnanda started the tradition of celebrating birthdays, started writing in newspapers and magazines, and wrote plays for children.

One of the famous stories she wrote is "Takdumadum", which is still popular in West Bengal.

She also started a children's magazine, "Balak", and insisted Rabindranath to write as well.

Jnanda decided to play the women role in a drama staged at Thakurbari. Women's characters were earlier enacted by men of the house.

"She played an important role in changing the mindset of her family. She also encouraged the ideas of women empowerment and fashion in Rabindranath," the book reads.

The book, priced at Rs 299, is available on online and offline stores.