Year fashion: When Indian designers took big strides by dressing up global stars

New Delhi: Remember saree-clad Kim and Khloe Kardashian turning heads at the extravagant Ambani wedding? And Jennifer Lopez channelling in her inner Queen Charlotte at her Bridgerton-themed birthday party this year? From sarees to regal gowns, 2024 witnessed Indian fashion designers like Gaurav Gupta, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Falguni and Shane Peacock, making significant strides by dressing up some of the biggest names not just in Bollywood but also Hollywood.

"It’s no secret that India is having a moment globally," Gupta, who has been the toast of the season with his dresses featuring prominently on international red carpet events, told PTI.

His outfits were picked up by Hollywood celebrities Mindy Kaling, Rebel Wilson, and Allison Janney for the 76th Primetime Emmy Awards in September, and Bridgerton star Nicola Coughlan for British Fashion Awards 2024 earlier this month.

"The increasing footprint of Indian designers globally reflects a significant shift in the industry's perception of Indian couture. It's no longer just about traditional wear but about blending innovation, craftsmanship, and cultural heritage with contemporary aesthetics," added Gupta.

Another Indian designer who made headlines this year was Sabyasachi. Bollywood star Deepika Padukone chose his saree for BAFTA Awards where she presented an award and Alia Bhatt rocked another of his unique creations for her Met Gala debut. Bela Bajaria, chief content officer of Netflix, wore his design at the Emmys.

In July, American reality TV stars and sisters Kim and Khloe Kardashian wore Indian saree and lehenga-choli ensembles by Malhotra and Tarun Tahiliani for the grand wedding ceremony of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant in India.

Malhotra was also the go-to designer for Lopez who chose a custom-made gown to celebrate her Bridgerton-themed 55th birthday party.

Malhotra, who recently dressed supermodel Heidi Klum for Mufasa: The Lion King premiere, said each of the moments of creating these designs and seeing them come to life was "filled with creativity and excitement".

"It's always an amazing experience to collaborate with figures who have such a profound impact on fashion and pop culture. The process involves understanding their personal style, the event's essence, and crafting ensembles that not only captivate but also resonate with their personalities," he told PTI.

Falguni Peacock, the one-half of the fashion label Falguni Shane Peacock, said their brand was a pioneer in designing for global personalities, including Nicki Minaj, Beyonce, and Kim Kardashian.

It's heartening to see colleagues following in their footsteps, added the designer, who recently dressed "Stree 2" star Shraddha Kapoor for her appearance at Saudi Arabia's Red Sea Film Festival 2024.

"We have dressed up Mariah Carey, who is an icon and there's a lot more coming up... It's great that India is on that platform and we have dressed everyone from Beyonce to Lady Gaga. It's good to see that everyone started dressing up (international celebrities) now. It's been 10-15 years since we started dressing them. Now, everyone is on it," Falguni Peacock told PTI.

What was the turning point when it comes to global celebs embracing Indian designers at important events, including the Met Gala, Oscars and Grammys? For Malhotra, it was a natural progression fuelled by "a growing appreciation for the rich tapestry of Indian fashion and craftsmanship".

"It wasn’t a single moment but rather a series of events where the unique allure of Indian design began to captivate global celebrities. When you look at Indian designs, there is an undeniable allure in the intricate handiwork, the vibrant textiles, and the unique ability to blend traditional aesthetics with contemporary flair.

"The heritage of Indian fashion is steeped in a legacy of artisanship that dates back centuries, and this depth of history and culture imbues every piece with a story," he said.

Over time, as the global fashion landscape evolved, so did the awareness and appreciation for the intricacies of Indian attire.

"Celebrities, with their keen sense of style, started to recognise the timeless appeal and cultural depth that Indian designers bring to their creations. This gradual shift reflected a broader trend of embracing diversity and celebrating artistry from different corners of the world, ultimately leading to Indian fashion gracing prestigious red carpets and high-profile events with increasing regularity," added Malhotra.

Gupta, however, said it was around the mid-2010s that global celebrities started embracing Indian designers.

"... when the fusion of traditional Indian elements with modern silhouettes captured the attention of the global fashion elite. For me, it was when I saw celebrities like Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Priyanka Chopra making significant statements in Indian designers' creations at global events that I knew we had reached a pivotal moment," he said.

Designing a custom statement piece is a blend of the designer's signature and the personality's brief, and Gupta said one of the most memorable feedback came from Beyonce, who has worn his designs multiple times by now.

"We had the pleasure of dressing Beyonce for the New York Fashion Week, where she wore our Galaxy Crystal jacket, bodysuit and boots. Beyonce's brief was clear, she wanted something that celebrated her bold personality while staying true to our design philosophy. Hearing her say that she felt empowered in our creation is exactly what we hope for every woman who wears our designs," he said.

And then there were Janhvi Kapoor and Ananya Panday walking for Rahul Mishra at different fashion events in Paris.

Not just clothes, Indian designers are also making strides in the jewellery sphere internationally.

Lopez, singer Rihanna, and Oscar winners Laura Dern and Meryl Streep were spotted wearing accessories designed by Sabyasachi and Hanut Singh at separate international events.