Return to the flame

Chefs across India embrace open-fire cooking, blending tradition and innovation to craft immersive, elemental dining experiences.

In a world dominated by sous-vide baths and induction cooktops, a quiet revolution is unfolding. Across India and beyond, a new generation of chefs is rediscovering the world’s oldest cooking method: fire. From the Himalayan hearths to Bengaluru’s modern flame-fed kitchens, open-fire cooking is being reimagined for today’s diners, who seek not only flavour but visceral, immersive experiences.

At the forefront of this elemental revival is Chef Prateek Sadhu, founder and head chef of NAAR in Himachal Pradesh. Located in Darwa, a small village, NAAR’s culinary philosophy draws from the terrain and traditions of the region. “Fire is not just a technique, it’s a philosophy,” Sadhu explains. “We cook everything, from root vegetables to meats, directly on fire, ash, or embers. It’s how the hills have cooked for generations.” For Sadhu, fire is more than a romantic throwback; it’s a deep connection to the land and the act of cooking. “Fire strips everything down to essentials: heat, time, instinct. Growing up in the mountains, fire was never just a technique; it was a way of life.” At NAAR, this philosophy transforms food into a sensory experience. “The Himalayan trout we cook on charred cedar wood picks up a smokiness while retaining its delicate flesh. Fire teaches you to listen,” says Sadhu. “There’s a difference between burnt and beautifully blistered, and we lean into that nuance.” This elemental approach extends beyond the mountains to Farmlore in Bengaluru, where co-founder and chef patron Johnson Ebenezer brings South Indian techniques back to life. “The inspiration for Farmlore came almost by accident,” Ebenezer recalls. “When I first visited, Kaushik Raju, the founder, showed me a pile of pruned mango wood. That moment sparked the idea to centre the restaurant around wood-fire cooking.” At Farmlore, nearly everything is cooked over fire. “Charred octopus, Bannur lamb slow-cooked for 18 hours in embers, everything carries a smokiness that defines the restaurant,” Ebenezer explains. For him, fire brings texture, aroma, and visual drama, but it also demands precision. “Cooking with fire is intuitive. You must maintain the soul of the flavour, whether it’s a simple dish or something complex.”

At Fireside, another Bengaluru-based flame-led restaurant, co-founders Priyanka and Rajat Alve draw from their farm upbringing, where meals were cooked over a traditional chulha. “That raw, flavourful cooking left a lasting impression,” Priyanka recalls. Rajat adds, “Fire transforms food in primal, poetic ways. It’s as emotional as it is culinary.” At Fireside, the design starts with fire itself. “We plan airflow, heat zones, and even select woods for their aromas,” Rajat explains. “Every dish is created with fire in mind. It’s a dance with the flame that begins before the first spark.” Vivek Salunkhe, chef-owner of Crackle Kitchen in Bengaluru, entered the fire-cooking space through his passion for butchery. “I quickly realised how open wood fire could elevate meat, adding depth, char, and smokiness that conventional methods can’t replicate,” he says. “At Crackle, I wanted to create a space where guests could experience the primal beauty of fire.” Salunkhe’s dishes, like masa tacos with flame-roasted aubergine, showcase the smoky flavours that fire brings. “The smoke is not just a garnish; it’s the soul of the dish.”

Across borders, 11Woodfire in Dubai, led by Michelin-starred chef Brando Moros, approaches fire with reverence. “Fire is raw; it strips everything to its essence. It changes constantly and demands your full attention,” Moros explains. At 11Woodfire, flames are visible to diners, adding a theatrical aspect to the experience. “There’s something magnetic about fire. It draws people in and keeps them engaged,” he adds.

Sadhu, however, embraces fire’s volatility. “Wind, humidity, and wood type all affect the outcome. But that’s part of the magic, no two services are ever the same,” he says. For him, open-fire cooking isn’t about recreating the past but interpreting it. “We borrow from indigenous Himalayan cooking methods, ash roasting, pit cooking, wood smoking, but pair them with modern techniques like fermentation and plating,” he explains. “Fire is the soul; technique is the backbone.” One of India’s earliest advocates for fire cooking is Amninder Sandhu, the culinary force behind Tipai by Wildlife Luxuries and Bawri. Sandhu’s kitchen at Palaash, 700 kilometres from Mumbai, is equipped with angeethis, sand pits, sigris, and smokers. “My cooking is rustic, comforting, and rooted in Indian tradition,” she says. “This is not just about flavour; it’s storytelling.” Her signature dishes, like Bater slow-cooked in a copper lagan over a chulha, are steeped in history. “We use Babool wood for its clean burn and high heat,” she shares.

At its core, open-fire cooking is about more than flavour; it’s about creating experiences. “Fire draws guests in. It’s multisensory,” says Salunkhe. Priyanka Alve agrees, “Fire invites engagement, memory, and connection. It’s not about going backwards, it’s about rediscovering something timeless.” So, is this return to fire a passing trend? Chef Sadhu thinks not. “It’s a response to overly processed techniques and disconnection,” he says. “In a world craving authenticity, fire is not only lasting, it’s necessary.” As the flames crackle and the smoke billows, chefs and diners alike are rediscovering the primal allure of fire. In that glow, both the act of cooking and the experience of dining are transformed, connecting us to something elemental and timeless.

(Aslam Gafoor is a Bengaluru-based hospitality professional, food lover, and travel enthusiast.)