The flavours and street eats of Vietnamese cuisine

Hanoi is a food lover’s paradise. It’s where cheap eats and fine dining blend to create a food culture so strong that travellers keep coming back for more. In this Vietnamese capital, food is not just for sustenance but for joy – a personal, individual joy in slurping bowls of broth and noodles or diving into a plate of perfectly cooked meats. Vietnamese people take pride in their cuisine, known for delicate flavours and an intricate balance of sweet, spice and tart, and an abundance of fresh herbs. 

Widely-known delicacies

Pho – to call this dish a simple noodle soup would be a grave disservice to its brilliance. Pronounced as ‘fur’, this is an iconic dish and the most popular of all in Vietnam. A deep earthy broth is prepared with beef but often you’ll have pork chicken and even vegetarian versions. The broth bowl is served with strips of beef, flat rice noodles and fresh herbs like coriander and shallots. It comes with a table-side condiment of sliced fresh garlic in vinegar and some chilli sauce, in case you’d like a kick of heat. It usually doesn’t and it’s perfection on its own. 

The best place to try pho is the very popular award-winning Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su. 

Bun cha – a breakfast dish made so popular thanks to a sit down nearly 10 years ago between the then US president Barack Obama and celebrated chef Anthony Bourdain that it’s next to impossible to visit Hanoi and not eat this. Bun cha is a dish of pork cutlets with pieces of pork belly in a sweetish broth made of fish sauce and pork stock. It comes with a side of rice noodles and a basket of fresh herbs with lettuce. Add the noodles and greens to your pork and broth, and slurp in enjoyment. 

The place to eat this dish is at Bun Cha Huong Lien, popularly called Obama Bun Cha. 

Bahn mi – one of the few good things to come out of the French colonisation is the stunning baguette the Vietnamese make and how they’ve created an epic sandwich which has become a national treasure. Bahn mi has become a globally recognised sandwich, which many try to recreate, but it’s nothing like what you get on the streets of Hanoi. A baguette stuffed with pork pate, slivers of cucumber, daikon, carrot and pork traditionally, but there are versions of chicken, beef and vegetables to cater to larger audiences. Like any Vietnamese dish – the addition of fresh herbs is the signature.

The best spot to eat it is at the popular Bahn Mi 25.

Nem ran and goi cuon – Instagram made the Vietnamese rice paper spring rolls so popular that every visitor to the country looks for goi cuon. The roll has lots of cooked meat or prawn with vegetables and it’s almost always DIY so you can assemble the roll as you like it, dunk it in the dipping sauce and enjoy. You also get a fried version of this spring roll called nem ran and it’s a crunchy fried snack specially with your bun cha or a chilled Vietnamese local beer. 

The best spot to grab these are at Bun Nem Cua Be Huyen Anh, which also serves crab stuff rolls. 

Lesser-known gems 

Cha ca – not easily found but when you do find it, cha ca is a treat. It’s local catfish fried up in turmeric and a green medley of fresh dill and spring onion. Cha ca is served with plenty of condiments and side herbs but this authentic Vietnamese dish is best eaten as is.

The best place to enjoy this is at the restaurant Cha Ca La Vong.

Bun oc nguoi (snail noodle soup) – not for the faint-hearted but for an enthusiastic foodie, this noodle soup comes filled with tender river snails. What sets it apart from other noodle soups is that here the broth is distinctly sour, thanks to the use of tamarind, unlike a pho. It’s possibly another culinary discovery during the French colonisation but this is a very distinct Hanoi delicacy that most tourists tend to miss.

Get a taste of this snail soup at Bun Oc Co Them, a no-frills joint. 

Banh cuon – a breakfast staple in many Vietnamese houses, this is a delicate almost pancake like rice noodle roll generously stuffed with minced pork and finely chopped wood ear mushrooms. It’s perfectly steamed and comes topped with fried shallots. Add a dash of some local garlic vinegar and dunk it in the accompanying dipping sauce for a great bite. 

This dish is best eaten at Banh Cuon Ba Xuan.

Special Vietnamese mention

While the food in Hanoi takes centre-stage, their coffee culture demands a special mention. Every street has several coffee shops and cafes with robust coffee menus but the real claim to fame is the Vietnamese Egg Coffee. It sounds outlandish but it actually feels like you are drinking a dessert. Sweet, frothy and served either warm or cold – it’s unique and thankfully you can’t taste or smell the egg! It's easily found at any café or coffee shop but the most sought after one is at Café Giang. 

Quick takes

Eat at Michelin rated spots; they’re mostly inexpensive.

Opt for an organised food tour so you’re not completely intimidated by all the offerings and have a local help you understand the cuisine better. 

Don’t skip the local food out of fear – there are plenty of vegetarian options as well.