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Is fashion industry an inclusive space?

While some have moved away from old practices, size inclusivity is still a topic of discussion in the industry
Last Updated 17 August 2021, 07:06 IST

British stylist and Print magazine co-founder Francesca Burns took to social media last week to address the concerns of unrealistic expectations of sample sizes models have to wear.

“I never want anyone on my set to be made to feel ‘less than’. More often than not, I’m working with young women who — in spite of being exceptionally beautiful — are living, breathing, feeling human beings who should never be made to feel they are ‘too big’ for the clothes,” the Instagram post read.

Many editors, fashion designers and stylists came in support of Francesca’s statements and are demanding inclusivity in the fashion industry.

Metrolife spoke to stylists, designers and models who share their thoughts on how the fashion industry is in India and they all unanimously agreed that the situation here has changed for the better in the last couple of years.

Address the demographic audience

Devesh Pant, fashion producer and stylist, has been part of the industry for close to a decade now. Having worked with both Indian and international models, he says sample sizes are provided based on the ethnicity of the models.

“The Indian body is different from that of a foreigner. International models are more petite which is why they require a much smaller size than Indians. Having said that, most of the sample sizes that are provided for stylists are large and it’s always fixed to fit the model on the day of the shoot,” he explains.

However, he feels that Indian brands opting for international models is losing its purpose.

Devesh says, “At the end of the day, your customer base is Indians. As I said earlier, our body type is different, so making a really petite model showcase your clothes is not the right way to go about it,” he says. He adds that things have definitely changed for the better in the fashion industry.

Social media impact

Fashion designer Madhurima Bhattacharjee mostly models her own clothes. She says the audience can relate to her better this way.

“I’m a dark-skinned short person who loves to create and wear sustainable clothes. On average, Indian women are mostly a size medium or large. I feel putting a skinny model just for the picture is taking away from the demographic of my audience.”

Madhurima feels that customers will also feel confident about themselves when they see a “non-model” pose in outfits. She says, “In the last couple of years, even well-known designers have taken to dark-skinned and plus-sized models. They are embracing inclusivity and promoting body positivity. Social media hashtags like #brownskinnedgirl are adding to people’s confidence. I’m glad we’re not where we used to be.”

More inclusivity

While it may seem like everything is going well in the industry, there are still a few who want a “model figure” when showcasing their product.

Professional model Viraja Achar says, “My body type is skinny, but my chest is on the larger side. I’ve had many clients rejecting me because of that. Many of them expect the models to be skinny and fairy flat-chested. It used to bother me, but I’ve also worked with others who want to work with me for the way I am.”

Viraja feels body positivity should be celebrated in the industry. “However strong-willed you are, sometimes these comments can affect us. It’s mentally exhausting and some take it worse than the others. So it’s important for people within the industry to evaluate the ethics and understand the real customer base,” she says.

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(Published 25 September 2020, 18:55 IST)

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