Finding Olomouc

A lesser-known city in Czech Republic, Olomouc can be a tourist’s delight. Home to historic monuments and the last remaining relics of the Communist era, this quaint little place gives a real taste of Europe, writes Melanie P Kumar.

My first reaction when the Regio-Jet train chugs into Olomouc is one of amazement. The station seems devoid of people, and so also the city. There are some places which lose out on tourists because of their proximity to a larger more publicised city. This probably is the case with Olomouc, located in Moravia, Czech Republic, being overshadowed by Prague. The city, officially founded in the 13th century, enjoyed its period of glory.

But, as with many European cities, which had to deal with invasions from their neighbours, Olomouc faced its downside too. The worst being the Thirty Years’ War of the 17th century, when it was occupied by the Swedes and left in ruins. But rebuild itself it did, and more so, after the fall of Communism.

After a quick check-in at a hotel, it is time to step out and explore the sights and sounds of this charming place. Stefan, the guide, informs us that the students are on a break in this University town, which accounts for the quiet streets! The Palacky University went through as many upheavals as the city. The Czech National Revival was essentially a cultural movement to revive the Czech language, culture and national identity. The Czech language, eclipsed earlier by German, now enjoys official status, and is used by most of its people.

History & religion

While walking, I notice the tram-lines crisscrossing the main streets but the drivers are slow. There is no fear of being hit! The best way to explore the city is by sauntering around, especially in the early hours of the morning, but an evening walk, starting from the city centre, is equally pleasurable. Public transportation in the form of buses and trams is also available, with ticket-vending machines strategically located.

I take brisk steps across the quaint cobbled stones which have experienced the footfalls of many a visitor to Olomouc. There is a rush to reach the building of the former Olomouc Castle, which includes the historical Archdiocese Museum and also the 12th century Romanesque Bishop’s Palace. The treasures that have been collected by the Catholic Church in the Museum are mindboggling.

The diamond and emerald-encrusted reliquaries and chalices sparkle and shine. What draws my attention is a golden carriage, which could perhaps put to shame the one owned by the House of Windsor in England. It enjoys additional fame for figuring in the film Amadeus. The Czechs love their famous personalities and there is a museum dedicated to the child-prodigy, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who is known to have composed Symphony No 6 in F Major, at the age of 11, while living in Olomouc.

Along the route, one passes St Michael’s Church and the chapel of St John Sarkander, built on the spot where he was tortured and martyred. In 1995, Sarkander was canonised by Pope John Paul II, when he visited Olomouc. At St Wenceslas Square, the imposing St Wenceslas Cathedral looms. The Cathedral is the seat of the city’s Roman Catholic Archdiocese, and its two towers make up an integral part of the city’s skyline, whilst the third, towards the south, is the largest church tower in Moravia, standing at 102 metres.

Communist past

The most clicked spot in the city is undoubtedly the Holy Trinity Column, which came up to commemorate the end of a plague, and is protected by UNESCO. The column looks grandiose and at night, with all the lights twinkling, enchanting. It has the largest group of Baroque statues within a single monument, in the whole of Europe. I take pictures again the next morning, when Stefan decides to take the brave and the strong-legged walk, up the tower of the Town Hall in the Upper Square.

The view of the city is impressive from above and the climb down becomes more bearable with the sighting of the Astronomical Clock, set within an arched recess. It dates back to the 1950s, and I am intrigued by this effort to organise society according to a 24-hour schedule, much before the Industrial Revolution. It is among the relics that have survived the fall of Communism. One can spot mosaics of workers and scientists, a dial that turns to display the International Day of the Worker, and the birthdays of Lenin and Stalin.
On Saturday mornings, the town square is full of people and the six Baroque fountains are spouting water in gay abandon.

These fountains, crafted during the 17th and 18th century, are named after Roman Gods, as well as military and mythological heroes. A particular favourite is the Arion Fountain, which has a boy and dolphin in the water and some more intricate details, making it one of the most beautiful public sculptures.

There is a lot of excitement in the town square, as people crowd around the vintage cars that are available to hire and drive around in. Most have come in period costumes. The cars and their occupants drive away looking charming and waving to the cheering crowds. There is further excitement in the form of a bridal couple and the family, which decides to pose in front of the much acclaimed Holy Trinity Column.

Soon, it is time to go back to pick up our luggage, which the hotel’s obliging lady receptionist has kept under lock and key. Then it is off to the station to catch the train to Prague. Cannot believe it when there is an announcement saying it is cancelled. Squatting on our luggage on the platform to make contingency plans, it feels like being home!