The charm of wrinkles

NATURAL & CHIC

While natural fabrics are making their strong presence felt in the style industry, linen is making a re-entry on the ramps and into people’s closets. Despite being an expensive fabric, the feel of linen is what is making it popular among people. The possibilities for linen as a fabric are varied from lounge wear to beach wear, says Suket Dhir, a fashion designer.

One of the biggest myths that need to be broken about linen is that it’s not a formal fabric. Suket says that having experimented with the product for years, linen is apt for formal occasions. Though one may not be able to attend a meeting in linen, there are many who change their outfits in office and linen offerings work perfect for such occasions.

Unlimited possibilities

Suket, who recently designed an exclusive linen collection for Raymond, says that he was able to design many balanced looks with the fabric, varying from regular shirts, pants and jackets to loose pants and long shirts. There are many garments that have been experimented with in linen - from wedding outfits like bandhgalas with classic and loose trousers to linen dhotis. There are also possibilities of making gorgeous saris with the rich fabric.

While many would take this as one of linen’s biggest limitations, its wrinkles are actually its charm. Suket vouches for the fact that unless one is sleeping in it, the fabric doesn’t wrinkle that badly. The yarn is very smooth and this is what makes it special.

“It’s about the feel of the fabric. It’s super light and fine. The weight of the fabric adds to the bounce of a garment. The best part is that it is one of the natural fibres available in the market,” he adds.
Cuts & stitches

One has to be a master while fitting with linen. Italian fits, that is, the slim fit or the skinny fit is a strict no-no with the fabric. Garments like a hosepipe trouser are also not a possibility with linen - one has to avoid such skinny styles. There has to be some room inside for movement, says the designer.

One has to know how to work around linen and the blend. Blending linen with wool can make it a winter fabric. Or it can be perfect for a summer suit. There are instances when one wants to wear a suit, which will keep you warm when in an air-conditioned office, but not make you feel hot when outside. Suket says that such blends work well with linen. He adds that the sheen on silk added to linen makes it glisten. There’s more ‘formality’ to it then. A little bit of silk can make a linen garment work as a wedding wear, too. Also, adding cotton to linen gives it a bit more stability.

And with time...

Linen is exactly the type of fabric, which becomes softer overtime. It’s like those old T-shirts one has from their younger days, which have softened and become much more comfortable over the years. Though Suket designs mainly for men, the garments in linen are for both, women and men.

Closet check
No skinny fits.
Bandhgalas are in.
Well-fitting linen suit in a subtle colour.
One linen kurta, at least.