In sync with the times

Inspired by the picturesque region of Ladakh, designer duo Didier Lecoanet and Hemant Sagar’s latest autumn/winter 2016 collection, ‘Genes - Lecoanet Hemant’, encapsulates the majestic snow peaks, monasteries and the scenic colours of the winter wonderland. Known for combining fluid silhouettes with intricate detailing, their latest collection is divided in three categories for men and women – ‘work’, ‘play’ and ‘celebrate’. In a chat with Shweta Sharma, Hemant Sagar talks about their latest collection, their over three decade long journey in the world of fashion, and the importance of social media today.

What is Genes — Lecoanet Hemant all about?

Genes- Lecoanet Hemant is our interpretation of the new-age Indian millennial who likes to dress up according to occasions. This collection is a ‘gear-up’ for the new season — dressed for success in business, as well as at home, and with friends. It’s about urban dressing without overdoing it and being totally appropriate in today’s India.

Why Ladakh?

Going to Ladakh was an eye-opener to an Indian culture in where extreme traditions co-exist with a strong attitude of modernism, and where both are in peace with each other. We were touched by the intuitive, yet self-assured functioning of this society which accepts today as a logical step ahead from yesterday, and there is no rebellion.

What type of clothes does the collection comprise?

The inspiration, drawn from the roots of the Indian tribes that feature a cast of blotted out styles like the cowl and crew necklines, embroidery, and feathers, transformed into eye-catching prints. The collection showcases boxy to tailored fits for dresses as well as jackets, fitted shirts to casual tees in hues of khaki, navy, black, white, grey and burgundy. A contrast of strength, yet an emotional attachment is seen with the use of tribal-inspired prints and classic
cut-outs.

You’ve had a long run in the industry. How have things changed over the years?

To give you a background, my journey started from the couture school in Paris where I had initially met Didier Lecoanet. We began working together with the idea of starting a fashion collective and launched our brand ‘Lecoanet Hemant’. Then and there we inaugurated our first store on Paris’s Faubourg St Honoré and dressed known celebrities. Over the years, we have seen a radical change in haute-couture buying. From the early nineties onwards we discovered that with time, lesser people would actually be wearing it, unlike the eighties. It was a sudden decline that never went back to its precedent level. Lecoanet Hemant was a very young brand then and we decided to make a move to set up a manufacturing unit where we could unite haute couture with the artisanal industry in a single place; and the choice was India. India is a fantastic place and we believe that there is a big future for fashion here. It has rapidly grown from what we have seen over the past 15 years.  Our business metaphorically moved from couture to ready-to-wear and also physically from Paris to New Delhi. This change has positively worked both for us and our loyal customers

How has this journey been?

The journey has been great. I guess each human is different; sticking to being oneself and not following anybody else’s route makes you original.

How important is social media today?

It is impossible to think of the world without social media anymore and one has to take into account how bombarded we are with unwanted information. It’s thus very important to be relevant and consistent. Blah-blah will get you nowhere.

Prominent designers are launching their collection on social media platforms. Do you also have similar plans?

You have to be in sync with the times you live in.

You have styled many celebrities. How important is it for designers to have celebrities endorsing their work?

It is the public that is celebrity hungry and drives designers and celebrities to play their roles together to fulfil media expectations.