Inspired from Kolhapuri chappals: Prada on footwear featured in fashion show

Mumbai: Following the backlash after featuring footwear strongly resembling Kolhapuri chappals, Italian fashion house Prada has acknowledged that it was inspired by the Indian handcrafted footwear.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.

“We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, in a letter to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture.

Bertelli’s letter was in response to the one by Gandhi after outrage over Prada’s footwear featured as part of its Spring-Summer 2026 collection this week.

In its show notes, Prada had described the footwear as “leather sandals”, with no reference to an Indian connection, evoking outrage from many in India’s fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra.

In his letter, Gandhi said, “I am writing to respectfully draw your attention to a matter concerning your recently unveiled Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which was showcased on 23rd June 2025 in Milan.

“It has come to public attention that the collection includes footwear designs that bear a close resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals (Footwear) a traditional handcrafted leather sandal that has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.

“Kolhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts,” Gandhi wrote.

He said, “While we appreciate global fashion houses drawing inspiration from diverse cultures, we are concerned that this particular design appears to have been commercialized without due acknowledgment, credit, or collaboration with the artisan communities who have preserved this heritage through generations.

“We kindly urge Prada to acknowledge the inspiration behind the design publicly, explore possibilities for collaboration or fair compensation that could benefit the artisan communities involved and consider supporting ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights,” Gandhi wrote.

“Such a gesture would not only uphold ethical standards in global fashion, but also foster a meaningful exchange between heritage craftsmanship and contemporary design. We trust that a brand of Prada’s stature and influence will take this concern in the right spirit and initiate a thoughtful response,” Gandhi’s letter to Prada said.

In his response, Bertelli wrote, “Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design. development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized.

“We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,” he said.

“Prada strives to pay homage and recognize the value of such specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage. We would welcome the opportunity for further discussion and will set a follow up with the relevant Prada teams,” Bertelli’s letter to Gandi said.

Artisans from Maharashtra have cried foul after footwear similar to the famous Kolhapuri chappals featured in Prada's show. They alleged violation of geographical identification (GI) rights.

BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik on Thursday led a delegation of artisans who make this traditional footwear to meet Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. They presented a letter urging him to look into the violation and preserve the product, which is a symbol of the state's cultural heritage.