JOIN USGlobal in spirit, Indian at heart
Fondly known as Chef Jolly among his colleagues and friends, Chef Surjan Singh is one of the warmest and most talented chefs to emerge out of India in recent years. Having been in the industry for over two decades, some of his achievements include being the former director of food & beverage at JW Marriott Sahar, Mumbai, hosting his own culinary show titled Ab Hai Koi Chef on Zee Khana Khazana, being a judge on the first season of Junior MasterChef India, and even whipping some delectable delights as the head chef for Paris Hilton during her trip to India.
The latest feather in his cap includes Riyasat, the newly opened Indian restaurant at St Regis, Doha, which has been much sought after by tourists and locals alike. In an exclusive interaction, Chef Jolly speaks about his growing up years, his experiences in the industry, and his latest project — Riyasat.
Were you always enchanted by cooking?
I am very fortunate to have grown up in the countryside of different cities and states of India. Besides, my mother had fondly created kitchen gardens in every place that we lived in. These were my playgrounds as a kid. So, running and jumping around a patch of spring onion or playing on mango and guava trees was a regular routine for me. We grew cauliflowers, eggplant and dozens of fruits and flowers. My mother also had a ground-dug beehive oven (tandoor) which was fired up every Sunday for the most awesome aloo parathas.
How did you enter the culinary world?
I wanted to be a fighter pilot or an architect, but then I took hotel management exams, fared very well, and joined the industry with pride. Over the years, I have worked with the Taj Group of Hotels, Starwood, Marriott, and many more. I now look back and think that it must have been my childhood which ignited the love for fresh ingredients and homestyle food in me.
Tell us a bit about Riyasat
‘Riyasat’ means legacy and the inspiration behind it is the rich legacy of Indian cuisine. All about sharing authentic cuisines and experiences, the restaurant presents not just great dishes but even stories and first-hand experiences out of royal homes. The harmonious blend of Indian cultures and traditions over the centuries can be shared and enjoyed at this pop-up venue by the poolside of St. Regis.
What are the special dishes on the menu and what cooking techniques are you using to create them?
The dishes are curated with traditional techniques and focus on using local produce. The souqs of Doha are abundant with spices and ingredients which support our cuisine style with very little being brought back from India. The basic techniques we use are clay oven roasting/char-grilling/griddle grill/pot-roasting/steaming/braising and stewing/pan frying.
There are quite a few popular dishes. Vegetarians are loving the chargrilled broccoli florets with thymol-fennel and mustard rub. Murgh malai is another big one — beehive oven-roasted chicken with royal cumin, ginger juice and buttercream. Hamour nimbu, grouper fish flavoured with lime zest and coriander root; pasliyan, a clove-smoked lamb rack with mustard and yogurt; biryani oudhi and daal riyasat are some of the favourites.
Is Indian cuisine very popular in Qatar?
Yes. The Qataris love authentic, traditional and honest Indian food. I am pleased that Riyasat’s food has been very well-received and continues to do so. We love crafting and curating this special cuisine and are very happy to serve all here.
How has travel influenced your cooking?
I certainly gain my inspirations from travel, interacting with elders and cooking with local people. I believe it all starts in the early years. In the early days of my career, I visited multiple cities and states in India. Later, I left for Dubai and then London. I also got to travel to Singapore and many cities in the US, Europe and the Far East. I was influenced by this international exposure and the local beliefs and ways of life of the people I met. Today, I can proudly say that all this has made me who I am and is reflected in my personality, both inside and outside the culinary world.
Which are your favourite ingredients to work with?
I am of a strong belief that if the ingredients are fresh, seasonal and of great quality, it’s the best. It wouldn’t be fair to pick one ingredient in particular as I get inspired by travel, different cultures and traditions, and my food reflects all that in a well-balanced way.
What’s your take on cooking reality shows?
Having been on these shows myself for two years on Zee TV and Star TV, I certainly find it fascinating and fun. Being on stage has its own charm. An organic show like Ghar Aya Chef on Zee was a brilliant idea, where I visited homes and cooked impromptu dishes based on the homeowner’s likes and what was in their fridge to capture the honest outcome in the real world. Junior MasterChef was an exciting one, too. It was an experience to see the real creativity of Indian kids. I love Rick Stein’s cooking shows. They are real and organic and he has a certain calm way of taking the audience through his awesome travel and culinary experiences.
What are the hottest trends in cooking this year? Any advice for home cooks and budding chefs?
Back to basics and simple is in. The focus on familiar flavours and accessible price points will be the key. Vegans and vegetarians are the new heroes. My advice to all food-lovers and young industry entrants is to focus on learning basic techniques, respecting ingredients, understanding the origins and cultures of different ingredients and having the right attitude to absorb all that.