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Versatile fashion for festival of lights

Varied cuts and ensembles that can be used as separates are people's favourites this season, writes Shilpi Madan
Last Updated 18 October 2022, 22:02 IST
Sarah & Sandeep's 'The Emerald Empress'. Credit: Special Arrangement
Sarah & Sandeep's 'The Emerald Empress'. Credit: Special Arrangement
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A design by Sarab Khanijou, who has brought in Bhagalpur silk embroidered bundis, sherwanis and bandhgalas for the season. Credit: Special Arrangement
A design by Sarab Khanijou, who has brought in Bhagalpur silk embroidered bundis, sherwanis and bandhgalas for the season. Credit: Special Arrangement
Sarah & Sandeep's 'The Gold Crest'. Credit: Special Arrangement
Sarah & Sandeep's 'The Gold Crest'. Credit: Special Arrangement

With Deepavali around the corner, and family gatherings and parties back in large numbers, sizzling designs are dominating the fashion world. Many are investing into exquisite designs after two years of lockdowns.

Co-ords meet lehengas

If you are done with the flower-streaked sari designs in dusty hues, take your festive dressing a step further. Co-ord sets offer comfort and versatility. Fashion designer Anavila Misra brings in eye popping hues like pink and orange together with classic whites, inspired by the blooms of the riotous bougainvillea, in silk and linen. “It is about celebrating little things in bright, happy colours with hand-drawn motifs and detailed florals,” says Anavila, about her collection ‘Kagaj Baha’, where one can see tiny flowers in silk co-ord sets and garden-themed shirts.

This blend provides an easy festive vibe — mixing traditional elements with modern silhouettes. The traditional lehengas have undergone a structured, glamorous makeover with asymmetrical cuts, bold sculpted shoulders, and lapels. These are easy to trifurcate into separates later.

Fashion designer Sarah Gonsalves, co-founder and director of Sarah & Sandeep, says, “Contemporary hand-embroidered lehengas bring in the sense of regal minimalism. Lapels and shoulders exude a powerful structure to the silhouette appeal for the avant-garde audience. They help women to portray their individuality with distinctive flair.” Multi-functional, structured cut lehengas can be used as separates — as floor length skirts — with stoles to dress up the ensembles further.

Conceptual asymmetric drapes are dramatic add-ons that enhance the overall look of the lehenga, she adds. “With hand-worked embellishments on them, the drapes bring in the shine and swish. We are inspired by the symmetrical style and have incorporated it throughout each design,” says Sarah.

In jewelled tones like emerald and gold, the flow and cut of the floor-length ensembles come alive through mermaid-inspired cuts, tapering from hip to knee. “The flow and cut of the floor-length ensembles, with a fully worked trail, leaf-style construction, and signature beaded swirls with eccentric details bring in a power punch,” Sarah talks of the lehengas fashioned in silks, organzas and even Italian wool.

“Women are choosing regal colours that offer a sense of elevation. Using cutdana, we have created geometric and abstract patterns and waves in lavish styles,” she adds.

These lehengas come priced between Rs 3 lakh and Rs 7 lakh, with lapels on the blouses enabling the designs to be paired with skirts, saris, and even denims.

The colours are a vivid pop, explaining the sparkling sequins that makes festive wear perfect for day-to-night dressing.

Cuts for the man

A surge of colours and cuts can be seen — even in silhouettes for men. Designer Kunal Anil Tanna is celebrating the season through a soothing rush of greys, textured aqua greens and blues, off-whites, peaches and lilacs. ‘Bring the bling on seems’ to be the mantra with zari trimmings, patch details in gold and bundi jackets teamed with long kurta and pyjama sets with an edgy spin. “Pleats, gota textures and thread pin tucks are perfect for the celebratory mood,” says Kunal.

He has brought in graphic metallic gold foil work on kurtas, and zari and gota accents for bling. Drape detailing with layers added skillfully as structured inclusions in kurtas brings in a fancy edge to creations, while a bundi jacket revs up the look by several notches. “The idea is to make multi-purpose outfits, so that they don’t end up as a one-time wear. Team the kurta with Aligarh pants to wear to a puja, or to a mehendi function. Couple the same self-colour pants in jewelled tones like sapphire blue, ruby red, emerald green for the classic, comfortable evening wear styles,” he says.

“Don’t be afraid of intricate thread work or beaded embroidery,” says designer Sarab Khanijou who brings in Bhagalpur silk embroidered bundis, sherwanis and bandhgalas to the repertoire, playing around with raw silk and organza in the silhouettes for that crisp edge. “Darker tones in olives, mustard yellows, navy blue and blacks work for the night,” he says, having brought in cottons, matka silks, chanderis, embroidered georgette for that light, comfortable feel. Cutdana, rivets, studs, pearls, leather tapes, layering, and embroidery on the collar usher in the finely detailed bling this season.

Versatility in functional cuts is key this season as you rework your closet later, teaming asymmetrical tops and kurtas with jeans and jewellery, for casual dinners with a touch of ethnic chic.

An accessories guide

You can elevate your festive ensembles with these add-ons:

*A single bracelet or wristlet, or a showstopper watch

*Skip the neck piece and opt for oversized earrings

*Silver, or rhodium finish rules the trends circuit in jewellery finish

*Embellished Kolhapuri wedges and jootis for women; Peshawari sandals or quirky sneakers for men are in vogue

*Tone-on-tone accessories like a matching jewelled potli

*Multi-layered necklaces, elegant kaanphool, gold chandelier earrings, gold chokers, kundan mathapattis, oversized naths, solo chunky kadas, and cocktail rings are in vogue

*Yellow gold and white gold is ranking high on the popularity circuit

*Diamond chokers with enamel work bring in the new age touch

Wallet factor

Indian jewelled colours are in. These ensembles start from Rs 6,000.

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(Published 14 October 2022, 18:04 IST)

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