The aroma of yesteryear

A black-and-white board with Kannada and English inscriptions, a line of people patiently waiting for a tummy treat, an attendant noting and calling out the names of the customers in order and a man balancing 15 plates of ‘dosa’ scurrying across the room. This is the view one gets at the vintage restaurant Vidyarthi Bhavan in Gandhi Bazar, Basavanagudi. It has been 72 years since its inception and the restaurant continues to draw customers across age groups. 

Started by brothers Venkataramana Ural and Parameshwar Ural in 1943, the restaurant was taken over by Ramakrishna Adiga in the 1970s, who is now running it with his son Arun Kumar. The ownership may have changed but the menu remains the same and the place, with its granite tables has become the symbolic representation of old Bengaluru.

With a limited menu that has regular South Indian snacks including ‘idli’, ‘vada’, ‘khara bath’ and ‘kesari bath’, the iconic restaurant is famous for its thick yet crispy ghee-roasted ‘masala dosa’ and the unique ‘sagu masala dosa’. The smell of the ghee-roasted ‘dosas’ floats in the air and makes everyone’s mouth water.

“We grind two kinds of rice to make the ‘dosa’ batter. The dosas here are thick and crispy at the same time. There is no rocket science behind the ‘dosas’. It is just a different method that we use to make the batter that makes it so special,” says Arun. Another special dish here is the ‘sagu masala dosa’ that caters to those who do not consume onion and garlic.

Soft and tasty, it would not be wrong if this place is called the pioneer in making these unique ‘dosas’.  “It has been ten years since I have taken over this restaurant. It was not necessary for me to reinvent anything as it was already a noted restaurant. My father had plans to shut down the place but I did not want that. That is why I quit my job and became a full-time owner,” adds Arun. The ‘dosa’ place is also sought-after for its crispy ‘vadas’ including the special ‘rava vada’. When asked if he wants to expand the menu, he says, “The expansion of our menu is not required because our customers come here with a set mind.

Had it been a new place, people would come to try out different dishes. But since our place is known for its ‘dosas’, the customers are already ready to have one. We tried introducing ‘pooris’. But the customers still prefer our ‘dosas’ over ‘pooris’.”

The restaurant has a lot of regulars including chief ministers and bureaucrats. Well-known Sandalwood actors Rajkumar, Vishnuvardhan and Ambareesh have also savoured the ‘dosas’ here. The artistic ambience of the place also adds to one’s experience with sketches of noted personalities of Karnataka, made by an old waiter named Murthy, hung on the wall.

 Ramakrishna Adiga continues to sit at the cash counter even today. “It is a matter of pride for me to be here. We have many regulars who I know well. There are many who have been coming here since childhood. I like talking to them and make sure that they are treated well,” he sums up.