A play with layers

Winter fashion

If winter comes, can fashion be far behind? Winter is almost here and the temperature has started to dip. With mornings and evenings increasingly chilly, layers, scarves, hoodies and woollens have started making their appearance.

But layering is an art in itself and fashionistas are experimenting like never before. Most designers say that the base layers of winter clothing must be effective.

“They must be made of material which allows sweat to evaporate. The next layer, which is the mid-thermal layer usually consists of zippered jerseys, mock turtlenecks or T-shirts. Bohemian prints are a rage now,” says Rohit Rajput from the Army Institute of Fashion and Design.

Layers should not be too tight or too loose because tight clothes apart from restricting movement do not insulate the body properly and loose clothes allow the warm air to escape.

“Proper ventilation through layers is required to allow heat to escape if it gets too hot or seal heat in, if it gets too cold. This can be achieved without having to take off any layer, with openings like buttons and zippers.”

He adds that balaclavas that cover the neck and head, can also protect one from the cold. “Fashionable options are available online and otherwise, which can make one look attractive,” he adds. For women, the scarf will remain the most effective way of styling, whether with skinny  jeans, skirts or hot pants. “They keep you warm and the prints play an important role, in making you look dashing.”

Colours and varied designs make for stylish layers. Designer Anjali Sharma, says that to be fashionable with layers in Western wear, they need to be visible and at different levels. “It’s nice to have a longer level inside and a shorter length on the outside. The technicalities of the body shape go into this too. The inner layers could be lightweight and sheer and the outers can be heavy-weight,” she says.

She says that playing around with colours are important in layers. “Chic monotones are in trend now. Monotones of greys and blacks, and pastels are also in. Softer wools and silks are in and they drape nicer.” Her favourite piece that she worked with, in layers, remains the ‘Shawrdigan’, which is a combination of a shawl and a cardigan. “This is an outfit, which has a sleeve on one side and a drape on the other. Done in soft wool, this could be dressy or non-dressy, and can be teamed with Indian or Western wear.”

Layering goes for traditional wear too, which can be pepped up with a long jacket, says designer Namrata G. “One can wear a grand sari with a long jacket, which will look elegant. The sari can also be worn with a sweater blouse which is embellished. The ‘choli’ of a ‘lehenga’ can be teamed up with a long jacket, which will look classy. This doesn’t make you look underdressed and also doesn’t look like one has just heaped layers on.”

A lot of layering is possible in Indian wear, says Stephin Lalan, a student from Vogue Institute of Fashion Technology. “‘Anarkalis’ are often worn with embroidered thick coats and saris can be worn with an embroidered waist coats.

 ‘Ghagras’ can be worn high waisted with intricate embroideries and paired with floor-length coats, with simple blouses inside. Simple ‘kurtas’ with neck embroideries, teamed with salwar pants that has embroideries at the hem, can be paired with a heavy work ‘dupatta’ or pashmina ‘dupatta’ with some exquisite design.”

He says that while one wants to stay warm during the season, layering with embroidered coats, adds to the style quotient.

“Colours like purple, emerald green, blood red, Prussian blue etc are most seen in winters. Prints such as houndstooth and chessboard prints are becoming popular this season. Embroideries in zardozi, thread work and mirror works with Kutch designs are also gaining prominence,” he adds.

While women like to stay in style always, men are not far behind with the many choices available nowadays. Paresh Lamba, designer, says that this wedding and festive season, people want to look ornate.

“We have created layered ‘sherwanis’, which is basically two looks in one outfit. The groom might want different looks, but he doesn’t have time to change for the reception, so he adds a garment to the look,” says Paresh. He adds that apart from weddings, for the day-to-day look, ‘bandi’ remains a favourite among many.

“A ‘bandi’ can be worn over a shirt, which can be layered with a jacket. Also overcoats and trench coats are big this season, which can be used over a suit,” he says.

A lot of new styles in ‘bandi’ are being done, with an Indo-Western fusion, “which suits better for Western more than traditional outfits”.

He adds that “creating a voluminous feel” is the way to go this season.