JOIN USOne of the few cities in India where one can take a breath of fresh air, Tezpur in Assam, is ranked as the least polluted city in India according to World Health Organisation’s latest survey.
For many, the name may not ring a bell, but for those familiar with this quaint little city, it would not come as a surprise. The hills of Arunachal Pradesh at the Himalayan foothills form its landscape to the north, while to its south flows the mighty Brahmaputra originating from Tibet. In the heart of the town is a huge man-made pond called ‘Padum-Pukhuri’ (lake of lotuses). In the blooming season, the swaying lotuses reflected on the water are a sight to gladden the heart.
Located close by is the sprawling Cole Park, with a lake in between skirted by walkways. To rest your legs, you can sit on any of the conveniently placed benches. But these are not benches of the usual kind. They are stone slabs with carvings collected from archaeological ruins lying in and around the historical town.
Legend has it...
Interestingly, Tezpur’s history goes back to mythical times. It was the stronghold of King Bana, a staunch worshipper of Lord Shiva. Legend has it that his daughter Usha fell in love with Aniruddha, grandson of Lord Krishna. That too, after just seeing a sketch drawn by her best friend Chitralekha, who had the magical power to travel anywhere unhindered. Now being a Shiva worshipper, Bana could not allow his daughter to marry a Vaishnavite prince.
He imprisoned Usha along with Chitralekha in a fort surrounded by fire called Agnigarh (fort of fire). Chitralekha with her magical power smuggled in Anirudha to meet her lovelorn friend, which was eventually discovered. Inevitably, a great battle ensued between Lord Krishna and Bana. Blood ran in rivulets. The name Tezpur, also known as Sonitpur earlier, both denote blood (tez/sonit) in the local Assamese language. The story ended on a happy note as the lovers were united after Bana was defeated.
The legend might be embedded in local oral history, but the Agnigarh hillock does exist in Tezpur. Today, it has been turned into a park called Usha-Aniruddha Udyan, where their story is told through murals. From the top, the magnificent Brahmaputra is a sight to savour.
In the distance lies the 3-km-long Kalia Bhomora Bridge, dedicated to a warrior general, which connects Tezpur to the southern bank. From Assam’s capital Guwahati, a trip via this bridge takes less than four hours. A drive by this long river-bridge gives an opportunity to enjoy the unparalleled beauty of the Brahmaputra, with its boats and the fertile fields flanking its banks. If travelling in winter, the river looks rather shrunken, but the countryside resembles a yellow carpet interspersed with green patches of vegetable gardens, as it’s the season of mustard flowers to bloom. Migratory birds can also be seen on the sand banks.
Even in recorded history, Tezpur had been known for its ancestry. The ruins strewn around the town are proof enough. Bamunipahar Hills, sometimes called Usha Pahar, (Usha hill) display beautifully carved sculptures belonging to 11th-12th century, when kings from the Salashambha dynasty made their capital at Harupesvar, which historians locate at Tezpur. Pundits say that it was the largest temple complex in Assam.
Hidden gems
Another remarkable example of architectural excellence is located at Dah Parbatiya village close to Tezpur. The door frame bears two beautiful figures identified as Ganga and Yamuna, and are representative of the Gupta period.
Assam lies at a tectonically sensitive area and experiences frequent earthquakes, some of great intensity, that have destroyed many structures of yore. The Dah Parbatiya ruin, as well as the those in Bamunipahar bear witness, experts say.
Tezpur is also famous for the Mahabhoirab Temple devoted to Lord Shiva. The huge linga attracts devotees from far and wide, particularly during the Shivratri festival. According to legends, the temple’s past goes to Bana’s time, and that he used to come here to worship. The present structure, of course, has been rebuilt in modern times. Not far away is the Mahabhoirobi Devi Temple, devoted to his consort.
Moving away from ancient times, Tezpur today is often called the cultural capital of Assam. It has nurtured many icons in the art and cultural field of Assam, such as Jyoti Prasad Agarwala, the first Assamese filmmaker. In the centre of the town, in front of his ancestral house called ‘Poki’, is the white statue of Rupkonwar — the ‘Prince of Art’, as Assamese people sobriquet him.
It was also the home of poet, lyricist and dancer Bishnu Prasad Rabha who earned all-India fame. A commemorative park in his memory on the bank of Brahmaputra has wall inscriptions with many of his revolutionary poems holding the flag for common people.
Visitors to Tawang of the golden pagoda fame, in Arunachal Pradesh, travel from Tezpur via Bomdila. An inner-line permit is required and can be obtained in Tezpur itself. People who do not want to go that far often make a day trip to Bhalukpung on the border of Arunachal Pradesh, offering a breathtaking view of the valley and the hills with the sparkling Jia Bhoroli river, known as Kameng upstream in Arunachal, keeping company. In winter, this area becomes a popular picnic spot.
The annual angling competition on the Jia Bhoroli in winter has been a tradition from the days of British tea planters. The great Mohseer is a famous catch but today, in keeping with environmental concerns, the catch has to be returned to the river.
The Nameri wildlife sanctuary with a variety of animals is adjacent to it.
Tezpur is indeed a place to relax and soak in history. And luxuriate in taking a deep breath in the unpolluted air, a privilege those living in poor-air-quality Indian cities would surely appreciate.