Oldest Sun temple in pathetic state

Martand Sun temple in south Kashmir, considered among one of the many important sites of archaeological significance in India, is about two-hour drive from the summer capital of Srinagar. Located atop the picturesque Mattan Karewas, 9 km from Anantnag town, the temple dedicated to Surya (sun god), is believed to be the only sun temple in the entire north India. Other sun temples are at Konark in Odisha and at Modhera in Gujarat.

Of the three Sun temples in India, Martand is the oldest, whereas, Konark temple, a colossal structure stands majestic on the sea shore on a vast stretch of sandy soil built in 13th century by King Narasimhadeva and the third one is at Modhera, built in 1026 by King Bhimdev. The oldest Sun temple, known as Kashyapapur was in Multan, Pakistan, built by Samba, son of Krishna in 515 BC, but destroyed in 10th century.

Built in the 8th century, the Martand temple in Kashmir is considered not only an engineering marvel but also a magnificent architectural creation. The 220 feet long and 142 feet wide shrine has 84 smaller shrines that surround it. Officially, Martand temple is regarded as one of the many sites of national importance in Jammu and Kashmir and is listed as a centrally protected monument.

The remains of this historical marvel, however, lie neglected as they continue to decay for five centuries in the absence of due conservative measures being taken. Experts say the structure built in rock and mortar has been decaying "faster than expected."

"Extremes of weather in Kashmir coupled with erosion and microbial growth are working like termites and if immediate measures are not taken, the structure may crumble and this historic marvel will be lost to invisible hands of neglect," said an expert on heritage, who recently visited the site.

"There's urgent need to get the site inspected by a team of archeologists and other experts so that conservation measures are implemented at the earliest."

The conservation work has to be carried out by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). However, the ASI Kashmir circle office, located in Jammu, has so far only given cosmetic touch by laying garden and planting flowering saplings in front of the ruined temple.

Beyond that the ASI has not done any major repair or restoration work to safeguard the structure against snowfall, rains and scorching heat.

"It seems the concerned are not doing justice to their earmarked charter of protecting and preserving the heritage sites in Kashmir and these have been left to the mercy of god," said a local.

An official of the ASI reasoned that there is no circle office in Srinagar. As a result, all 48 historical sites 'protected' by the ASI in the Valley are in dilapidated condition. "Majority of the ASI employees are Kashmiri Pandits who are not only reluctant but also object to shifting of the office from Jammu to Srinagar. Besides, we lack manpower and once we get over this problem, the ASI will preserve and maintain all the historical sites in an efficient manner," he said.

But apart from neglect towards decaying structure, no measures are being taken even to promote the site as a preferred tourist destination. "Basically this site can be essentially promoted for religious and heritage tourism and tourists, especially those from South India, will love to visit such a site," said a tour operator.

He said many such recommendations made by the travel and tour operators continue to gather dust in government offices. In a memorandum, tourism operators said: "Because of its (sun temple's) historical background, building, structural craftsmanship and sculptural figures on stone slabs of deities, Martand ruins can attract both domestic as well as foreign tourists."

Observers believe that the temple site can be explored to revive harmony between trouble-torn Kashmir and the rest of India. "The religious importance of the temple could face resurgence if efforts are undertaken to restore it. If people from across the country start paying obeisance at this otherwise neglected temple, it will revive an emotional bond with this land," says Muhammad Iqbal, a hotelier.

As the history goes, the Martand shrine was famous in ancient times and finds mention in Rajatarangini (a metrical legendary and historical chronicle of the north-western Indian subcontinent, particularly the kings of Kashmir).

The importance of this shrine is also described in Martanda Mahatmya (a literary work in Marathi that narrates the story of Khandoba who is said to be the divine incarnation of Lord Shiva that descended in order to put an end to the demons namely Malla and Mani).

According to Aurel Stein, a Hungarian-British archaeologist, "The ancient remains at the sacred spring itself are very scanty. All the more imposing are the ruins of the great temple, which King Lalitaditya erected at a short distance in honour of the presiding deity of the tirtha. (Tirtha particularly refers to pilgrimage sites and holy places in Hinduism as well as Jainism)."

But in the recent past, the only time the Martand temple shot to prominence was in 2014 when Bollywood crew shot song sequence "Bismil" for Shahid Kapoor-starrer 'Haider.'

Thereafter it continues to be a forgotten site. "It rarely happens that some tourist visits this site," said Arif Ahmad, a youth who runs a small café near the site.

The Directorate of Tourism Kashmir, however, promised that the government was committed to promote the temple as a destination. "If all goes well, we may hold a tourist festival there as funds have been earmarked for such events this year," a tourism official said.

But all such plans continue to be dependant mainly on the ground situation in the Valley, as south Kashmir is considered a hotbed of new-age militancy while Anantnag district is seen as hub of aazadi sentiment.