Green bends in the road
A road trip is like a lesson you never learn in school — it teaches you about life and the kindness of strangers, and unleashes myriad experiences in places far and wide. Add to this the sudden appearance of hills through the haze of clouds and the glimpse of the sun rising on the highway, and the drive becomes worthwhile.
Our trip began with an early morning wake-up call and a desire to escape the plains to feel the embrace of the cool mountain air. The Chennai-Bengaluru drive used to be a breeze a few years ago; this time it was a pothole-ridden affair because of ongoing work on the highway, especially the stretch from Sriperumbudur to Ranipet. As the sun started beating down, we stopped for a sumptuous South Indian breakfast at one of the many eateries that dot both sides of the highway.
We entered Bengaluru, took the NICE Road and linked up with the Mangaluru highway to proceed towards Hassan. The route through Channarayapatna is peaceful and can be covered in about four hours, our drive punctuated with hot cups of tea and mirchi bhajji as we entered Hassan town at sundown. We broke our journey with an overnight stay at a conveniently located hotel, to be well-rested and enjoy the scenic drive to Chikkamagaluru the next morning. There is much to explore on this route – from historical sites and ancient temples to dams and waterfalls. First on our itinerary was the Rosary Church in Shettihalli village, about 25 km from Hassan.
Tourist spots
It is only recently that tourists outside Karnataka have become aware of this magnificent church, built in 1860 by French missionaries on the banks of the Hemavati river, in the Gothic style of architecture. The church was abandoned when the construction of the Gorur-Hemavati dam in 1979 submerged this place of worship and surrounding villages. The skeletal ruins of the church with its algae-covered walls and roofless interiors rising from the waters give it an unearthly look. The church remains submerged all year, except for the summer season. If you are lucky, boatmen may be available to take you inside the church on a coracle, to get a closer look.
After the calm environs of Rosary church, the next stop was Halebeedu. Here stands the ancient temple complex on a star-shaped garden, built during the reign of the Hoysala dynasty. The structures, especially the Hoysaleshwara temple, are architectural marvels and house some of the most detailed engravings and stone sculptures depicting scenes from mythology, nature and everyday life. The complex also has a heritage museum run by the Archaeological Society of India that will interest enthusiasts of ancient history and culture.
Just a half-hour drive from Halebeedu is Belur, an ancient town on the River Yagachi and well-known for its majestic Chennakeshava temple dedicated to the Hindu deity, Vishnu.
Local produce and cuisine
Having paid obeisance to the gods and with the Western Ghats playing peek-a-boo, we finally reached our destination — a farmstay just off the highway in Chikkamagaluru town. The quaint homestay, with its charming retro-style cottages, mango, pepper and jackfruit trees, and authentic Malnad-Mangalurean food is a perfect balm for weary city travellers. The town market has outlets of known coffee manufacturers and is a great place to pick up local produce and savour Malnad cuisine.
On the second day of our stay, we drove up to the mesmerising Baba Budangiri hills to visit the Guru Dattatreya Swamy Bababudan Dargah, where both Muslim and Hindu devotees offer prayers. The dargah has long been a symbol of religious amity, despite recent communal tensions over its origin. The mercury suddenly drops up here and the wind is chilly, with viewpoints offering breathtaking vistas of the Western Ghats through the mist. A little ahead of the cave shrine is the spectacular Manikyadhara falls.
The same evening we ventured to the tranquil Hirekolale lake, one of the highlights of our trip. The lake fringed by the Mullayanagiri hills is a sight to behold, as the changing colours of the sky reflect in the serene waters.
The next day was all about driving back to Chennai while also savouring some Gowda-style cuisine before the border was crossed as memories brimmed.
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