Sole mates or soul snatchers? Prada's Kolhapuris step on Maharashtra's toes

Mumbai: Days after controversy erupted after Prada presented Kolhapuri-style sandals in its Men’s Spring Collection at Milan Fashion Week, pricing them at Rs 1.2 lakh without acknowledging the chappals’ Indian origin, artisans, or cultural significance, it has turned into a major issue in Maharashtra.

The Kolhapuri chappals have a geographical indication (GI) tag since 2019.

Yuvraj Sambhaji Chhatrapati of Kolhapur, who is a descendent of legendary Maratha warrior Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and iconic social reformer Rajarshi Shahu Chhatrapati Maharaj, has taken up the issue and slammed Prada S.p.A, the Italian luxury fashion house founded by Mario Prada.

Sambhaji Chhatrapati, a former President-nominated Rajya Sabha member, is the son of Kolhapur Congress MP Maharaj Shahu Chhatrapati.

“Rajarshi Shahu Chhatrapati Maharaj granted royal patronage to Kolhapur’s craftsmen, catalysing the flourishing of this footwear tradition. The Kolhapuri chappal isn’t just a fashion statement - it embodies generations of craftsmanship, community livelihoods, and cultural identity. Copying the design, concealing its true provenance, and marketing it under a global luxury label is nothing short of a 'daylight robbery' of our shared legacy,” said Sambhaji Chhatrapati.

The development took place a day after BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who hails from Kolhapur, wrote to Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, to protect the brand of Kolhapuri chappals.

“We have no objection to an overseas brand using our design; we only want them to be sold in the name of ‘Kolhapuri chappals’. That is our only demand,” he said.

Mahadik is also contemplating filing a public interest litigation in the Bombay High Court on this issue.

“In 2019, the Kolhapuri chappal earned GI status, formally recognising its unique regional and cultural significance. Had Prada ethically sourced and appropriately credited Kolhapur artists, we would have celebrated their role in amplifying authentic Indian heritage worldwide. Instead, their silence and omission have sparked widespread outcry across social media and artisan communities,” Sambhaji Chhatrapati added.

He urged Prada to acknowledge the origin of the footwear, credit the patronage of of Rajarshi Shahu Chhatrapati Maharaj, partner with artisans and establish fair licensing or design collaborations with Kolhapur’s tanneries and cooperatives, ensuring artisans receive due recognition, royalties, and opportunities for co-creation.

“Fashion must be inclusive, not extractive. The Government of India should act decisively against companies that unlawfully appropriate our millennia-old crafts, and as consumers we must stand in solidarity with the artisans who have nurtured these traditions for centuries. Let’s ensure that when an authentic Indian product—deeply rooted in culture and community—enters the global marketplace, its genuine identity travels with it. Through respect, collaboration, and fair acknowledgment, we can make sure global fashion uplifts rather than erases living heritage,” added Sambhaji Chhatrapati.

The Dalit Voice, in a post on X, said, “Prada is selling Kolhapuri chappals for Rs 1.2 lakh - a design stolen from the Chamar community of India, who’ve handcrafted them for generations. No credit. No acknowledgment. Just pure cultural theft dressed in luxury branding. Shameful”.

RPG Enterprises Chairman Harsh Goenka said, “Prada is selling products looking like Kolhapuri chappals for over Rs 1 lakh. Our artisans make the same by hand for Rs 400. They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture. Sad!”.