Bewitching Bhubaneswar

The Temple City of India, also called God's World, exhibits magnificent architecture down the centuries, writes M S Raghunath

A stone wheel engraved in the walls of the Konark Temple in Bhubaneswar. The temple is designed as a chariot consisting of 24 such wheels. PHOTOS COURTESY WIKIPEDIA

Rajarani Temple, Bhubaneswar

Imaginations engraved on stone is how the tourist attractions in Odisha are referred to by the tourism department of Odisha. It is no exaggeration indeed. The capital city of Bhubaneswar alone is dotted with so many temples that it is called the Temple City of India. A team from the group Rediscover Lost Heritage recently claimed to have discovered a treasure trove of old temple idols and panels at Laudanki village near Satasankha on the Bhubaneswar-Puri road making Odisha a must-visit for those interested in history, architecture and monuments.

The temples of Odisha form the last link of the series of monuments created in the state. Thus they depict the pinnacle of excellence that Odisha-built architecture had attained at one point in time. I started my visit with the famous Lingaraja Temple. It has a special significance for Bhubaneswar because Bhubaneswar as a Shaiva Pitha derives its name from Tribhuvaneshvar. The 180-feet Lingaraja Temple stands majestically with a lavish sculpted wall. The most conspicuous feature of the temples in Bhubaneswar is not the bell type or dome-like structures, but tall towers known for their astounding architectural features. Intricate carvings are the hallmark of such towers.

Ornate & exquisite

There is also the Mukteswar temple, a 10th Century temple dedicated to Shiva, located in Bhubaneswar. It is a gem of Odisha’s architecture. The most significant feature of the temple is its ornately decorated arched gateway, known as Torana. This is itself a piece of exquisite beauty in carving at the entrance of the temple. Besides, it is one of the two temples in Bhubaneswar to have a carved ceiling inside its Jagamohana or the porch. The next attraction is the famous Rajarani Temple that boasts a distinctive charm. It is constructed from reddish and yellow sandstone locally known as Rajarani and hence this name. The temple is known for its exotic combination of architectural excellence, sculptural elegance and ornate decoration. The cluster of miniature shikharas around the superstructure has enhanced the beauty of the temple complex. There is a well-maintained garden also in the complex and it has made the sight very attractive. Located about 60 km from Bhubaneswar, in the small coastal town of Puri, Sree Jagannath Temple is one of the most sacred Hindu pilgrim centres. It is dedicated to Lord Jagannath, a form of Lord Vishnu. Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are the three deities worshipped at the temple. The characteristic feature of the temple is the image of the Jagannath idol made of wood. It is ceremoniously replaced every 12 or 19 years by an exact replica.

Scenic & tranquil

According to history, Jagannath was a tribal deity, adored by the Sabar people. Among the existing temples in Odisha, the length of the Jagannath temple is the highest. The temple tower is built on a raised platform. Jagannath temple also reminds us of the famous Rath yatra, which was held recently in a scaled-down fashion due to Covid-19 restrictions.

The famous massive temple dedicated to the Sun God in Konarak is located in the tranquil ambience of Chandrabhaga beach. The word Konarak is a combination of two words, Kona and Arka — kona means corner and arka means Sun. There are three images of the Sun God at three different sides of the temple to catch the rays of the Sun in the morning, noon and evening. The temple, an architectural marvel, is also known for artistic magnificence and engineering dexterity. It is designed in the form of a gorgeously decorated chariot mounted on twenty-four wheels, drawn by seven mighty horses. Some of the wheels are three metres wide. The temple symbolises the majestic movement of the Sun God. At the entrance of the temple stands a Nata Mandir, where the temple dancers perform in homage to the Sun God. Thousands of images found on the temple walls include deities, celestial and human musicians, dancers and myriad scenes of courtly life. Most of the temple is in ruins. Even in its ruined state, it is a wonder. As Ravindranath Tagore wrote of Konarak, “Here, the language of stone surpasses the language of man.’’ The Sun Temple has been declared a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Kalinga reminds History students about the Kalinga war fought by Ashoka. At a distance of 8 km south of Bhubaneswar, there is Dhauli hill, located on the banks of the river Daya. It is a site of great historical significance. The famous Kalinga war which led to the miraculous transformation of Emperor Ashoka is presumed to have been fought here around 260 BC. Dhauli houses major edicts of Ashoka engraved on a rock. On top of Dhauli hill stands a majestic Shanti Stupa or Peace Pagoda which was built by Japanese monks. There are also the statues of Buddha, in different moods and designs.

If you think that tourist attractions in Bhubaneswar are all about only the temples, you will not be disappointed as there is a surprise in Chilika Lake, a brackish water lagoon, covering Puri and two other districts. This lake is Asia’s largest salted water lake located in Odisha. It is also the largest wintering ground for migratory birds. The lake is also home to a number of threatened species of plants and animals. Boating in the lake provides a refreshing sight of colourful birds, beautiful flora and fauna. It has also been listed as a tentative UNESCO World Heritage site.