48 HOURS IN ISTANBUL

An eclectic blend of the East and the West, Istanbul’s heritage and riches are aplenty. Join Aruna Chandaraju on a frenetic trip around stunning minarets and spice markets

Istanbul, the capital of Turkey, is strategically located in the Bosphorus peninsula and stands at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. It is thus in a unique position both geographically and culturally. But what if you have just 48 hours to explore its riches? You make the most of the days you have in hand by starting very early, finishing very late and soaking up every minute in between.

Istanbul is a city of stunning domes and minarets, fabulous museums, great architecture, luxury baths or hamams and amazing spice markets. Istanbul also showcases a vast range of arts and crafts, is a foodie heaven, and a place that thrives on its vibrant nightlife. The Arabic and Central Asian music, belly dances as also theatre, are other attractions.

Some of the offerings at the Spice Bazaar.

We headed off to the Hagia Sophia on the first day. This great monument, with its magnificent dome and richly decorative interiors, was a cathedral, then a mosque and is now a museum. Built in the 6th century AD, it served as an Eastern Orthodox Cathedral and later as a Roman Catholic Cathedral. From 1453 AD onwards, it functioned as a mosque under the Ottoman empire. Today, this museum is visited by lakhs of people every year. Along with Topkapi Palace and Suleymaniye Mosque, the Hagia Sophia is part of the historic sites of Istanbul and since 1985 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Big draws

Most of the iconic buildings of Istanbul are concentrated in the old city and centered in Sultanahmet where Hagia Sophia is the biggest attraction. A few minutes from here and we reached Basilica Cistern, a centuries-old water reservoir, the biggest of its kind in this region. The subterranean cistern is reached by a flight of steps downward. Watch your step as you walk around the moist pathways in this underground chamber and head to the Medusa first if you are strapped for time. The stone carvings here are breathtakingly beautiful.

Once you emerge, you can take another short walk to see the famous Sultan Ahmed Mosque aka Blue Mosque with its imposing domes and minarets. The hand-painted blue tiles in the interior walls and stained-glass paintings are exquisite. There is a dress code at this historic mosque, so be sure to carry a scarf.

Summers mean very hot weather and we found relief from the searing heat in the ayran, Turkey’s famous yoghurt drink akin to our buttermilk, ice-cream and slush.

We next visited the Topkapi Palace, which served as the residence of the Ottoman Sultans for around four centuries and is now a museum. The opulent interiors and grand exterior offer insights into the lavish lifestyles of these rulers and the art and architecture of those times. We could have spent hours in its courtyards and gardens but rushed out due to a paucity of time and had a quick lunch comprising local delicacies while sipping on some black, rather delicate Turkish tea.

Ornate

The Carpet Museum is nearby and houses a large collection of antique carpets. These have been largely sourced from mosques and prayer halls and can be dated back to the period between 14th and 20th century. Even if you don’t have the time to go in, just pause to take a look at the spectacular ornate gate. The Istanbul Archaelogy Museums close by are an art-lover’s dream. A complex of three museums, they house nearly a million objects covering almost every civilisation and era in world history.

The modern version of the traditional Turkish hamam or bath house offers a spa-like experience. Do get a treatment if you can squeeze in the time for this indulgence.

And oh, the baklava. The delectable national dessert now, has the coveted European Union protected status. A flaky pastry stuffed with pistachio, other nuts or cream and dipped in sugar syrup, this dessert is simply irresistible.

Dinner was once again typical Turkish cuisine, a melange of flavours both Asian and European. Vegetarians could have lentil soup, pastas, salads and dishes featuring local vegetables and herbs and fruit platters that included cherries and the ubiquitous watermelon.

Sultanahmet, which is close
to the Blue Mosque.

Non-vegetarians on the other hand, could choose from dishes made of lamb and fresh seafood, pita bread, hummus, gozleme, bazlama and kebabs.

Soaring high

Early next morning, we left for the Galata Tower which soars above the entire district, for panoramic views of the city as well as splendid photo-ops. There were long queues given its popularity, but the views were worth it.

Around Galata Tower is a market area dotted with restaurants and stores which sell ethnic products and souvenirs.

The Istiklal Street is Istanbul’s most famous avenue. It is also the most crowded, given that nearly three million people visit this part on weekends. The cobblestone street is lined with bookstores, art galleries, music stores, theatres, boutiques, patisseries, cafes, stores selling local artefacts, etc. The weekends also feature street shows of music and dance.

We were there on a weekend and there were so many street performers. We made our way through the milling crowds, almost racing through in an effort to be in time for our dinner cruise, even as we tried to catch quick glimpses of the sights on this amazing street.

There are many cruise options available — from budget to luxury — and it was not surprising to note that the waters were crowded with various ferries when we arrived. The dinner cruise over the Bosphorus waterway offered superb views of the city and its domes and minarets, the facades of its iconic monuments and waterfront mansions, and the legendary Bosphorus Bridge which connects two continents. Besides the food and drinks on board featuring local specialities, there were belly dancers, Anatolian folk-music singers and yes a whirling dervish too. 48 hours, well spent!