Deliciously red

No colour has had such a transformative effect on our emotions as red. With its various shades, this captivating hue has reshaped our perception of excitement, passion, and love, and also played a pivotal role in culinary artistry, writes Madhulika Dash.

When Chef Vikas Seth of Sanchez decided to present his tacos in a shade of red, achieved with roasted beet juice, which is his favourite colour extraction technique, he had no idea he was creating a phenomenon. What started as a “novelty take” on traditional tacos quickly became a bestseller.

Today, those signature red tacos feature prominently on his festive menus, as the perfect canvas for introducing diners to lesser-known Mexican dishes like wet burritos and reviving forgotten ingredients like millet, yams, and shoots. “The colour red, done right, doesn’t just elevate a dish visually, it bridges the gap between visual cues and taste perception, encouraging diners to embrace new combinations,” says Chef Seth.

Chef Nimish Bhatia, known for his gastronomic storytelling, shares a similar perspective. “The brilliance of red lies in its cultural associations,” he explains. “As one of the most recognisable and comforting hues, red evokes a spectrum of emotions — from sweetness and goodness to celebration, passion, and royalty — depending on the dish and how the shade is used,” he adds. Take, for instance, Chef Altamsh Patel’s monochromatic masterpiece, Flower Market Bliss. Inspired by Dadar’s iconic flower market, this vibrant dessert showcases the skilful use of “Mexican Red,” extracted from a medley of fresh fruits. Combined with the delicate pink of ruby chocolate mousse and the golden glow of mango purée, the dish evokes nostalgia, excitement, and indulgence in every bite.

Similarly, Chef Seth’s Smashing Love and Rose-Scented Shrimp highlights red’s versatility. While the red hue in Smashing Love enhances the sweetness of fresh strawberries and milk chocolate curls, the chilli-oil and beet purée in Rose-Scented Shrimp intensifies the shrimp’s umami notes. Even when used sparingly, as in Indian Accent’s Bajra Bhel, red transforms the dish, adding visual vibrancy and nuanced taste.

The iconic red velvet cake serves as a testament to red’s transformative power. Originally a World War II creation made with Dutch cocoa, vinegar, and buttermilk, the cake became a symbol of love and decadence after its legendary presentation by James Beard at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in 1972. Red’s ability to inspire and captivate is a story as old as the discovery of colour itself. Ancient civilisations — from the Romans with their royal blood cakes to the Kashmiri use of cockscomb in Rogan Josh and the victorious Laal Maas of Rajasthan — used red to signify power, passion, and celebration. In medieval times, red was a staple in royal feasts, with everything from saffron to fruit-based dyes creating visual spectacles. Even Nur Jahan, the Mughal empress, was known to incorporate red into perfumes and popsicles, while the Bhaumakara queens of Odisha designed seasonal menus around varying shades of red.

Chef Dolphy Lobo of Pullman Cairns International notes, “The tradition of using rose petals and tomato flowers as garnishes in fine dining highlights how red has always been central to culinary artistry.” This enduring allure is evident in the global popularity of Cochineal Red, a natural dye that remains a $35 billion industry. Historically, it coloured everything from candies to rainbow cakes, cementing red’s association with celebration and indulgence.

From a psychological perspective, red holds a unique place. After white and black, it is the third colour our eyes notice due to its long wavelength. This, scientists say, explains its ability to boost appetite and heighten taste perception, particularly for sweetness and umami — even before the first bite. Chinese cuisine exemplifies this concept beautifully. “Red in Chinese dishes,” chefs observe, “is as much about the story as it is about taste, even in innovative recipes with no historical precedent.” The evolving use of red in modern gastronomy is a fascinating shift. While the classic allure of red endures, chefs are experimenting with more natural and nuanced techniques. For Chef Lobo, this means airbrushing pigments onto dishes like sweetheart cake. For Chef Bhatia, it’s layering hues in unexpected ways, as in his tomato halwa sorbet. Chef Seth blends red through purees, fermentations, and roasts, while Chef Patel uses red as part of a harmonious palette, balancing contrast and complement like an artist at work. Red isn’t just a colour on the plate; it’s an emotion, a story, and a sensory cue. From tradition to innovation, its supremacy in the culinary world remains unparalleled.

The anatomy of a dish
Simran Singh Thapar, executive chef of Leela Palace, Bengaluru breaks down his signature dessert “Circle of Love” to share its layer-on-layer composition and the use of red in curating a treat that impresses.

The hallmark of a good dessert today is about balancing all five flavours to make the perfect bite, and that’s where the dish originates:

Sweet
Raspberry Rose Petal Mousse
Taste: Refreshingly sweet
Texture: Smooth
Element: White macaroon shell filled with red-hued, monochromatic velvety mousse.
Colour technique: Fresh raspberries and rose petal extract blended with reduced red beet juice.

Sour
Cranberry-Pomegranate Leather
Taste: Tangy with a delightful zing
Texture: Chewy like fruit leather
Element: Cranberry Fruit leather
Colour technique: Cranberry and pomegranate juice, set with agar agar, enhanced with red currant puree.

Spicy
Red chilli-infused Chocolate Praline
Taste: Spicy with a hint of sweetness.
Texture: Mildly brittle
Element: A deep, red heart-shaped chocolate praline filled with glossy chocolate ganache.
Colour technique: Steeping chilli into cream overnight captures the spice and red hue.

Salty
Himalayan Pink Salt Caramel Sauce
Taste: Delightfully salty and sweet
Texture: Thick with a buttery finish
Element: A rich, velvety caramel sauce enhanced with pink salt.

Warm
Red Fruit Compote with Star Anise
Taste: Fruity and aromatic
Texture: Deliciously chunky
Element: Warm, spiced compote made with a mix of red berries infused with star anise.
Colour technique: Stewing of strawberries, cherries, and cranberries.
The second aspect, says Chef Simran, “in the making of a remarkable dessert is the play of temperature, which adds a new dimension to the composition — the play of cold and warm is a classic ace that works.”

Cold & Warm
White Velvet Gelato
Taste: Subtly Sweet
Texture: Frozen smooth
Effect: It chills the palate to relish subtle flavours and the feather-light Espuma of the Angel Cake batter served
on top.

(The author is a seasoned food columnist and curator of experiential dining experiences, pop-ups and retreats for chefs.)