Temple jewellery decoded

Its motifs are drawn from classical literature, myth and religion, and it adds special glitter to south Indian weddings

The traditional mangalsutra includes two gold balls that rest on the thymus gland.

Sketch of a peacock necklace by Bharathy Harish.

Evocative and intricate, temple jewellery occupies a pride of place in the modern-day bridal trousseau in south India.

A lot of research goes into making these statement pieces, and the inspiration comes from the epics. In his 7th century Sanskrit work ‘Kadambari,’ Banabhatta refers to an ear pendant shaped like a ketaki flower worn by his heroine Malati. Sriharsha’s romantic saga ‘Naishadha Charita,’ written in the 12th century, describes Damayanti’s lotus bud-shaped jewels, and the design is still popularly used.

Today’s designers attach health and religious significance to many aspects of their creations. “The commonly used mangalsutra includes two gold balls. It should rest where the thymus gland is located. It is said to improve the immunity of the wearer,” explains Bharathy Harish, managing director and designer at Madhurya, a design studio on Kanakapura Road, Bengaluru.

Motifs are often inspired by deities and each element has a meaning. Goddess Lakshmi signifies wealth, the ‘annapakshi’ or the divine swan is said to attract positive energy, the lion is a symbol of courage, and the lotus stands for purity and self-regeneration. The beauty of temple jewellery lies in its religious meaning, says Bharathy.

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Often, the designs are inspired by temple architecture. “Carvings and sculptures on temple walls are adapted to the jewellery. So jewellery from different regions have different stories to tell,” says Girish Kumar, proprietor at Sri Gurukrupa Jewellers in Bengaluru.

Girish is a fifth-generation jewellery maker and he has seen the craft evolve. Back in the day, temple jewellery was mostly made from gold and silver and finished with handcrafted accents. Now, fusion temple jewellery has broken into the scene. “A combination of gems lends a modern touch, while the structure retains the traditional essence,” observes Girish.

Younger women are gravitating towards smaller accessories like jhumkas and pendants that they can wear regularly. “This wasn’t the case before,” Bharathy says.

How they are made

Dyes and moulds are prepared for deities, flowers, and birds. “Gold and silver are rolled into flat pieces and pressed into the moulds. The moulds are then filled with gold foil or beaten metal,” explains Girish.

Once the mould is set, the pieces are soldered and polished to give them a lustre.

“It is a team effort. An entire chain is responsible for tasks like creating the moulds, soldering, adding gems and stones and polishing,” Girish points out.

The advent of computer-aided design (CAD) has added speed to jewellery-making. Karthik Y R, proprietor of Pallavi Jewellers, explains, “CAD is used to create 2D and 3D models of objects. This has improved the design and manufacturing flow.” The finishing and polishing is done by machines.

History and evolution

Temple jewellery is said to have originated in the 9th century AD, during the reign of the Chola and Pandya dynasties. The pieces were made from gold, precious gems and metals offered to the deities in temples across southern India.

Later, temple dancers started recreating and wearing these jewellery on stage. "Temple jewellery started featuring big and bold designs so people could see it from a distance,” explains Karthik, designing temple jewellery since 1999.

Jewellers started drawing inspiration from temple architecture, history and the attributes of deities.

Since it is associated with deep religious feeling, temple jewellery is seen as an heirloom among south Indian families.

While the allure of temple jewellery is timeless, Bharathy is concerned about the shrinking number of traditional craftspeople (karigars). “The art of making temple jewellery needs to be taught in educational institutions,” she says.

Girish is more optimistic. “Lately, ‘karigars’ (artisans) from all over India are coming for work to Bengaluru as there is a demand for temple jewellery in south India,” he says.